A mentality that killed a hostel

The mentality is a common term used in Azerbaijan in cases when it often has to do with women's rights, gender equality, domestic violence, rape, early marriage, abuse, harassment, and of course anything that is new, and unfamiliar. 

When you are beaten at home by your husband, it is against our mentality to say anything. And even if you do reach the police, they will say it is your fault. So go home, and be a woman according to Azerbaijani mentality. 

If you are raped by someone in your family, you do not talk about it because it is against our mentality. It happens, perhaps he had his best intentions at heart. Be a proper daughter, sister, niece, or whoever you are in the family household and keep it quiet according to Azerbaijani mentality. 

It is against mentality to go on dates to get to know your future partner because alas you find out he/she is a psychopath. No, you can only find out about that after you are married and who cares what happens after that. It is against Azerbaijani mentality to poke your nose into other family businesses (which is also not true as everyone pokes their nose into family business).

If you are married off at an early age, those doing this to you, think it is in accordance with norms of Azerbaijani mentality because who cares about giving this young girl a life and a future, alas, that is not according to Azerbaijani mentality. Because a woman's place is being a servant. Nothing more. 

Nightlife for unmarried women is against mentality. Being an independent is against mentality. Deciding not to have kids right after you are married is against mentality because if you don't start popping them out of the oven, something has to be wrong with you or your husband but it is often you because it is never the husband as that too is against Azerbaijani mentality to ever question the husband. 

Mentality or "mentalitet" in Azerbaijani is our rock that keeps pulling our society to the depth of the Caspian Sea because it is certainly preventing our young generation from development (of course in addition to the terrible education system, non-existing social services and so on). 

Why am I writing about this all of a sudden? Well, you will be surprised when I tell you that in Baku, the booming capital of modernity, the city that is advertised in glossy magazines, just had a hostel shut down because of guess what... yes! mentality! 

A young entrepreneur decided to open a hostel encouraged by the state tourism policy. He converted an old apartment into a hostel offering great services and quickly gaining prominence among guests. But little did this young entrepreneur know that an evil neighbor who rents out flats on floors above the hostel will get all furious in his dirty sick little old mind and complain about the hostel calling it a whore house.  

Did he for once even visit the place? No! The owner tried finding a common language but when an old pervert thinks it's a whorehouse, it must be a whorehouse because there cannot be any other way. Because going against elders is also against Azerbaijani mentality. So the old man tried everything including the local district police department (this was his last resort as all the others started ignoring the old man after realizing he was simply against the idea of a hostel).  He was personally received by the head of the district police whereby the two agreed without letting the hostel owner explain anything that the hostel must close regardless of the fact if there any guests staying there, or booked to come. 

But the actual mentality bomb was dropped by the head of the press service of the Ministry of Internal Affairs who said hostels were against Azerbaijani mentality. 

And this my dear readers is how mentality killed a perfectly normal hostel business that was totally legal, matching all the requirements and simply an act of good investment. But alas, turns out, even hostels are against our mentality. 

A note for the Queen

Its been a while since I have made an entry here.

Busy times, and depressing news lines with an exception of occasional good stories here and there have not been too motivating. Just because things are, to put it gently are shit.

Back home crackdown continues unabated. Money is laundered and no one is to take responsibility for what is going on only to blame "others" whoever those others are still a mystery to me.

But then, I stumbled upon a status update shared on Facebook. It was not really a status update but a letter to the Queen of England herself. Below you may find rough translation of the status that for Russian speakers you may find here.

"Thoughts of provincial biopolitics 8 or an open letter to the Queen of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, Her Majesty Elizabeth II. 

“Nobody tells me anything…” 

 James Galsworthy

You Majesty, Ilham Murtuzayev speaking here, from Azerbaijan. I would like to congratulate you albeit belatedly on your 90th birthday and wish you good health and well-being. However, in this regard, I have a delicate request to make. 

As far as we are allowed to know, our country, namely the President of Azerbaijan Ilham Aliyev, has allocated a lump sum to celebrate your anniversary. 

I am 67 years old and I have about 50 years’ of professional experience. Currently, my pension is around 50-60GB pounds per month. One million pensioners in Azerbaijan receive approximately the same amount. 

I imagine it would be difficult for you to understand how one survives on this amount, and I won't even try explaining it to you. Perhaps, our president also does not know. 

That is why I hope you would understand my delicate request and refund this money to the poor Azerbaijani pensioners. 

Maybe you would want to donate this sum to a charity, but to paraphrase Mahatma Gandhi, one can say “Good purposes cannot be reached by bad money”.

I understand that this will not affect my pension (and neither it will yours) and I may as well be accused of international terrorism, religious extremism, drug or weapon trafficking and so on. 

Thank you, Your Majesty. 

Using this opportunity and while I have access to Internet, I would also like to appeal to some of the countries which also receive our money, and ask them not to build various centres, parks, monuments and etc. with the money of poor Azerbaijani pensioners. 

Even religious structures do not recommend that one engages with charity to the detriment of one’s own interests. However, in this case I am not sure that personal interests are being hurt. 

For example, about a year ago, we, a group of citizens from Gusar city sent a letter to the Haydar Aliyev Foundation asking to save from destruction our very ancient city park which has a 200-year-old history. We never received even an answer. 

However, the same Haydar Aliyev Foundation built an entertainment centre in Paris. 

It is hard to stay happy in such cases. I am kindly asking world communities to stop organizing “Eurovision”, “Formula 1”, European and other Olympic games in Azerbaijan. Also, please do not send always-smiling OSCE and other observers to Azerbaijan during various referendums, election monitoring and etc. Or, at least, please choose those who are allergic to black caviar. 

The same smiling observers visited Syria many times. It would be great to send them there nowadays.  

Azerbaijan has a lifetime prime minister, and other ministers (who have privatized their ministries), deputies (who were elected by no one) and even an ombudsman has been here for a lifetime?! 

On 26th September we had the referendum (I even saw three people who went to vote) and now, to call things by their names, even Mr President is here for life. 

80-90 per cent of goods in our country’s grocery stores are imported from Russia, Iran, Belarus, Ukraine and even Georgia!? We don’t even produce plastic buckets. The Baku – Russian border highway (250 km long) has been under construction for almost ten years. One billion US dollars has been spent on it. All the people involved in it have already bought houses, villas in London, Istanbul, Prague and elsewhere. 

But the highway is still under construction. When one section of road is ready, they immediately start to repair the previous one. 

Today is 28th October 2016. We are in Gusar city. There has been no gas since this morning, and at 5pm just when our residents were looking forward to getting their gas back, the electricity went down as well. It is exactly the same like it was 20 years ago…"

I think this letter sums up pretty well the shit show taking place in Azerbaijan right now or shall I say, taking place for the last 20 years? 

Dispatches from Azerbaijan: preparations for Formula 1, reactions to critical of Azerbaijan bills and investigations and more

Ah my dear Azerbaijan. What has become of you?! Your diplomats are seeking political asylum in foreign countries, some of your most honest and dedicated people are in jail, some of your best have left the country in search for better jobs and opportunities, others building their lives back home while the rest are stuck between the daily struggle of survival and existence.

Depressing? Worse! Its a disgrace! For a country that made billions worth in revenues, to keep its people in such conditions is nothing but shameful. 

But no one is taking the blame or feels the least bit ashamed of their acts- and I am speaking about official Baku, those greedy officials, parliament members, who are rubbing their full bellies, rich on their greed and lip service. And they won't do or say anything to jeopardize their comforts because they know all too well what their lives would be like otherwise. And why not?! There are always scapegoats and "foreign powers jealous of prospering Azerbaijan" to blame.

Take for instance Azerbaijan's few diplomats who were recently stripped of their diplomatic credentials after breaking down the usual diplomatic mantra of "yes President Aliyev, right President Aliyev, we salute you President Aliyev and we will do whatever you say President Aliyev, even if means selling ourselves". Arif Mammadov who was former Ambassador to the Organization of Islamic Cooperation in the EU; Nahid Jafarov, former consul general of the Azerbaijan Embassy to the Netherlands, and Anar Hasanov, former secretary of the Azerbaijan Embassy in Australia- all have been dismissed, just like that, as if their time "expired" like daily food products. 

The moment they opened their mouths in the direction of truth, exposing corruption and the unjust Aliyev's regime, they were "called in". 

In the meantime, preparations are in full swing for the Formula 1 race. It is happening. Next year. And rumor has it, Azerbaijan is hosting the race because Heydar Aliyev junior is a big fan- of course this is just a rumor but nonetheless it is costing Azerbaijan serious $$$. The minister of youth and sports confirmed today that the country is spending some 12millionAZN [AZ] for the race. 5millions were already spent. Who knows how much the country is spending in reality. But whatever it is, the budget won't get filled by the series of ridiculous fines the parliament of Azerbaijan recently introduced. And do not worry, 30,000 tickets will be sold and Azerbaijanis will be able to purchase tickets on 40% discount. I am just not sure whether 30,000 tickets is what they are planning to sell in addition to 40% discount tickets. Otherwise if a few ministries are forced to buy these tickets (as we have seen happen in the past to fill out the venues) not sure how we are supposed to make any revenues from that? But hey, I am no economist, and perhaps there is something I don't see (I am relying for this on my usual critics/trolls who have a tendency to shower me with their opinions on this).

And last but not least we have some developments from the Council of Europe and US. On December 16, Secretary General of the Council of Europe Thorbjorn Jagland, launched an official inquiry into Azerbaijan's implementation of the European Convention on Human Rights. Jagland said he will "send representatives to Azerbaijan to seek explanations from the authorities concerning the country's implementation of the Human Rights Convention". Surely Azerbaijan officials were quick to respond. Aydin Mirzazade, MP said this decision exceeded Jagland's powers. However, someone needs to remind Mr. Mirzazade that under article 52 of the European Convention on Human Rights, Secretary General- in this case Mr. Jagland-can actually launch an inquiry to find out how domestic law in any member state is implemented. Mr. Mirzazade should actually be ashamed of the state of freedoms and liberties in Azerbaijan rather than criticizing European institution. 

Also on December 16, United States Representative Chris Smith (R, NJ), Chairman of the Commission on Security and Cooperation in Europe, introduced draft legislation entitled the "Azerbaijan Democracy Act of 2015" (ADA). "The bill is a strong policy response to [this] unprecedented attack on democracy, human rights and civil society in Azerbaijan. The legislation is modeled on the Belarus Democracy Act, which was passed into law during a harsh crackdown on civil society in Belarus. It recognizes the important national security and economic interests that do exist between the United States and Azerbaijan but sends the message that cooperation in areas of mutual interest is hindered by Azerbaijan's gross human rights violations including repression of the political opposition, the media and the religious minorities". 

For Hikmat Hajiyev, Azerbaijan's foreign ministry spokesperson this document is of course the outcome of "Armenian lobby". Oh God, for once, come up with a credible excuse!

Siyavush Novruzov, MP was quick to dismiss [AZ] the bill adding he had doubts the bill will get accepted anyway so there was no need to worry.

The head of the national parliament Ogtay Asadov demanded [AZ] that the US Embassy in Azerbaijan made an official statement clarifying whether this was just one opinion of one congressman rather than official position of the country. During the meeting at the parliament on December 18, Asadov hinted that Azerbaijan's "friends" in the US congress (of which the country apparently has enough) will stop this bill from going any further.

The question is what will be official Baku's next move- will it jail more people? Or will it change its mind about the list of prisoners the president pardons at the end of the year? Or some other hideous fine list? Who knows?! We shall wait and see...

Life in a prison cell of a political prisoner

Prison is a terrible place. It is worse if you are there not because of a particular crime you have committed but because of the crimes others have committed but trying to frame you. In Azerbaijan this phenomenon is called political prisoner and have many of these folks. In fact, we have more political prisoners than in Russia.

One of these prisoners is Ilgar Mammadov, presidential candidate, leader of a political movement. He was arrested after a visit to a town Ismayilli. In 2013 mass riots broke out there with people demanding attention to their grievances. And they had many. Poor infrastructure, corrupt administrative officers and so on. 

Mammadov went to see what was going on. The two was surrounded by the military (yes, the government in Baku was that afraid this might end up having a domino effect on other nearby regions as well). There was little information coming out. 

Mammadov was arrested shortly after his visit into Ismayilli. He was accused of organizing mass riots against the government and sentenced to seven years. 

But that is the story of many political prisoners. All sentenced on trumped charges, with no proof. 

People of Ismayilli would have never protested if they had better life standards, if they had better access to social services, and proper infrastructure. They would have not went on the streets had their administrative office was not a place of corruption and bribery but a place that actually dealt with people's problems and addressed their issues. But no, it was easier to jail political activists especially in the run up to the presidential elections to get red of competition and teach others a lesson. 

Mammadov's imprisonment however wasn't an end to silencing him and preventing him from continuing his political work. He has been beaten too. 

But in Azerbaijani prison, when a political prisoner is beaten, threaten, intimidated- it means golden stars for prison guard and the head of the prison from Baku's prosecutor office. Its as if they are assigned special homework. And beating is just one of the exercise assigned by the ruthless teacher. 

Mammadov's lawyer complained but it means nothing. 

It means so little that he was only seen by a doctor 5 days after he was beaten. 

Mammadov however thinks there is a reason behind these numerous attacks- to force him into signing a letter of pardon, apologizing. 

But apologizing for what? For wanting to change Azerbaijan for a better? For standing up for his rights and for the rights of others? For being an honest man? 

Official Baku proved on many occasions that none of the above really matter. It is only about consolidating more power, crushing down on more independent voices, and making sure people live in a constant state of fear.

Turns out not only they are fake but they are also aggressive

They can also beat you up, or break your camera or attack you with a broken bottle as we saw outside Khadija Ismayil's trial today (August 7). The absurdity of it all is unexplainable, I cannot put in words how bizarre all of this is. 

So remember the fake court attendants? Well turns out they are not so fake after all. They are listed in the directory of the court and get called in to "attend" the trials of those defendants whose hearings are likely to be quickly filled up with friends and colleagues. 

I remember attending the hearing of N!DA activists when I was in Baku. I also remember attending several times the hearing of the donkey bloggers. The rooms were almost always full with friends, colleagues, diplomatic staff and so on. 

People would cheer for the defendants, somehow raising their spirit I suppose or perhaps to comfort themselves - I did, I was happy to see them all alive each time, see them smile and wave at every familiar face they saw at the court. It is such a different world that it is also very hard to put down in words.

But this time it is all very different. 

Just like it was during the hearing of Leyla and Arif Yunus, many of the people who actually knew Khadija were left outside the court, waiting. 

One of the local journalist, former political prisoner himself said he was familiar with this phenomenon of fake attendants. They are on speed dial and often are invited to fill out the seats. They are also paid a dismal amount of 5 to 10AZN.

So when a group of these fake attendants were caught on cameras leaving the court room instinctively the local reporters jumped on the opportunity to ask who they were. After all, perhaps it was possible that Khadija had some very very very very distant relatives even she herself didn't know existed?! 

Turns out they were not the distant relatives nor were they in the mood for much talking. In fact a few of them were unhappy. So unhappy that they were ready to beat the crap out of the reporters who approached them in the first place asking questions about who they were and where they were coming from. 

Eventually one had his camera broken, the other almost had the same but managed to save himself. 

The optimist in me wants to think they were angry not because they were asked questions but because they were so deeply disappointed with the show trial and how badly it was organized that they just couldn't handle the anger and simply had to burst out at the journalists. But we all know this is not the case. 

Today we saw that our people are ready to sell themselves for some petty cash, sit in a court of a person they don't know, snap and yell at journalists they don't know and then get to walk away freely as if nothing happened and as if it was not a human life that they just watched the whole day inside that court room get unjustly accused of the crimes she never committed.  

I guess Aliyev deserves real pat on the shoulder for achieving this almost robot like thinking and the enmity of people towards each other. It is his way of ruling that forces people to the extremes and these fake attendants are just one example.

As for us, outside observers, all that is left is to watch, bite our nails and pointlessly yell at our screens as we watch yet another innocent life get silenced for truth.

A comprehensive list of restrictions introduced during the European Games 2015

Source: EurasiaNet.org http://www.eurasianet.org/sites/default/files/imagecache/galleria_fullscreen/042815_0.jpg

President of Azerbaijan, Ilham Aliyev, is allowed to do many things. Apart from jailing, intimidating, and ruining people's lives, he is also very creative when it comes to complicating people's lives even further (not that it wasn't complicated already).  

As we all know, European Games (aka European Olympic Games, which later were quickly changed into European Games) are fast approaching. In just a little less than a month, international athletes are going to ascend into the capital of this "rich", "democratic", "tolerant" and glitzy capital.  

Guests will be shown (only what is allowed to show) and eat (only where it is allowed to eat) and probably even use the toilet (only where it is allowed to) because of a simple fear of showing the true conditions.  

And don't get disappointed  if you step out on the streets in the search for billboards and quotes with late and current president's wisdom - they have been deleted but don't worry, if you come again (with a strong emphasis on "if") you might see it again everywhere around you.  

But with no further a due, here is a list of restrictions introduced thanks to these games:

• all large and small “happiness palaces” - which is another name for large venues where normally Azerbaijanis host wedding parties and other ceremonies – are banned from work (this might not affect families to be but certainly the people who work at these venues whose sole income depends on these institutions);
• no large vehicles (and in some cases buses) – trucks – will be allowed to enter/exit the city of Baku (the same story applies – what about all those men employed in this job?);
• all the small street vendors – which sold phone credit, sunflower seeds, and little things as such – would also be banned from working on the streets;
• drivers earning their income by providing taxi services here and there will be banned from doing so unless they are driving a new car. All old cars wont be allowed to drive in downtown area;
• no illegal parking (around the vicinity of the arena)
• alcohol wont be sold (given the games coincide with the month of Ramadan and so the committee decided to ban sale of spirits all together); pedestrians will have designated roads for walking;
• there wont be any construction work (in the vicinity of the arena); all street beggars will be taken out of the city (there has been no official decision on this but likely to happen);
• oh, and i almost forgot, you cannot die during the games, because if you do, your family and relatives and friends wont be able to hold a burial ceremony as it too is banned.

And as I have written earlier, residents of the capital are requested not to hang clothes outside on their balconies and etc.  

But these are not the only limits. Those who read this blog, are aware of a much bigger and sever crackdown against rights groups, activists and journalists taking place in the country. And yet, the government officials continue to claim its all lies – that its all part of this large, international black PR campaign. Just like the first deputy chairman of the national assembly Ziyafet Asgarov who said, “it is very disappointing that a number of international organizations along with some local non-governmental organizations have joined in some black pr campaign in the wake of first European Games. I am disappointed to see that this campaign is trying to discredit Azerbaijan. Instead, they [the government of Azerbaijan] should be thanked for taking on this responsibility and be thanked”. 

Hmm... I am trying really hard to find at least one little thing to thank our government for but nothing comes to mind really!  

Azerbaijan during the European Games: what you probably don't know (part 2)

So apparently a new limitation (or more like a ban) is imposed on the local residents of Baku. Turns out now the residents who reside in buildings on the main streets overlooking avenues, and downtown Baku wont be able to hang clothes outside on their balconies (!)

Residents of some buildings say they were "informed" about the new regulation by some "directorship" who plastered posters on the buildings in downtown Baku.

Locals believe this new "regulation" comes in the preparation to the European Games so as not to "disturb" the beauty and esthetics of the city. Haha!

So yea, if you are in town for the games, please be aware that because of these unnecessary, expensive and overrated games Baku's local residents are even being prevented from their Eco-friendly, traditional ways of drying clothes. 

(un)happy Baku

We all know the Pharrell Williams and his trendsetter song "Happy" from the animated Pixar movie "Despicable me 2". 

There is even a new trend to send in videos from around the world titled "Happy from XXX" representing cities and countries from across the globe. 

But when I watched this morning "Happy from Baku" video I couldn't help but wonder- are we really?! Yes, people in the video look very happy (granted half if not more of the people starring in the video are well known artists from Azerbaijan and a few random passerby). 

Maybe Baku is happy and so are its residents but I thought of all the recent activists, bloggers, journalists, and advocates who were sentenced to jail on trumped charges in just past one month. I am pretty sure their families, friends are not happy. 

So was this video mocking all those people of Azerbaijan who don't feel happy at the moment? Because I am pretty sure with the unemployed, hungry, struggling to get by, average Azerbaijanis there is nothing to be happy about. Nor there is anything to be happy about the level of our deteriorating education system, health care system, social services. The Baku thats in the video isn't everyone's, not the happy part at least.

Last year, there was a remake of another popular video- Harlem Shake but because there were no famous people in it and because it wasn't supported by Azerbaijani government its maker is actually in jail today, yes- convicted for 8 years! Will the people who made the "Happy" video convicted now too?! Of course not! So let them be happy, the few who care little about others.  

Number eight

Dedicated to 8 young men currently facing jail time. For what? For speaking their mind! For being young and for doing what they believe in! They have been on a hunger strike as a sign of protest but it has done little to change the wicked orders. This is yet another disgusting attempt by the authorities to silence the country's future- its youth.

***

why do you hate?

for what, oh please be kind and reiterate

and please tell me there is an expiration date

on that deep, disgusting hate!

is it for freedom of one's mind?

or your jealousy of an existence of such mankind?

don't worry the day will come for you to find

the punishment for suffering you've mastermind

but till then lets evaluate your hate

oh yes, that's filthy, gross and nasty state

so let's begin with who you are?

a snake? awaiting for your bait?

that sounds just about right

a snake-that bites at day and night

who else you are?

no, no, you are a madman sucked in hate

and all you care about is large estate

living a life in that presumptuous state

you are a truly snake, with venom ready not just for 8

despite you knowing their innocence

you bite right through them without any wait

just like a vicious snake would readily disarm its bate

but not to worry, there is a cure even for your hate

there is this thing called justice gate

and soon you too will hit its door

and there you'll see the sadness you've deplored

the pain you have imposed upon

the lies you've fed, not once

and not just to innocent number 8

but to the millions of this country's men

A country of untamed cheats?

As I stepped outside of the gates, a man approached me quickly, asking whether I needed a taxi. I politely declined, as polite as one can be at 4am in the morning. It didn't take another minute when another driver approached me, quickly following with my space. I once again declined, but he pressed. And so I got into his cab. He said there is a meter in the car but when I heard him ask me how much I usually pay I knew there was something fishy. And fishy it was. The man wanted to charge me 30manat (approx. 30EUR) for a ride that costs half of that (I know because I have taken taxis from the airport home before). He then suggested I leave my suitcase in the car while I negotiate with the other taxis because "trust me sister" he said, "thats how much you are going to pay no matter what". My patience was slowly running out. For some reason he then suggested that I take a cab of another taxi driver (of the same company) but who already had a passenger. "So what there is a passenger, she is a woman, you can go together" (and that was after he suggested he takes another passenger). Angrily I crossed the street while the men continued shouting behind me (did I mention that it was raining?). I reached a London cabbie. The driver did not let me open the door- he first asked where I was going. Unhappy with the destination he then asked how much I would pay- to which I snapped and said "whatever your meter shows". He said 20manat, I said it costs 14 tops. He didn't give in but yelled at another London cabbie driver telling me its his turn anyway (but if I was to pay 20 it would have been his turn?)

By this point, I am angry. My "new" driver, says not to pay attention, which his attitude apparently to everything as I later learn in the car. 

We take off. He first asks me if I have local currency. I say yes, to which he asks a following question "do you have change?". I had few 1manat bills left from my last trip. I handed 1manat bill to him asking whether this is a new regulation- passengers paying for the parking too? To which he said no, it just he didn't have any change. 

We continue. I look at the meter, and its "flying". I ask the driver, whether this is normal. He says that its absolutely normal and that I should not worry (who said I was worried, contrary, I was FRUSTRATED). "I see you are not a fool" he says to which I simply start laughing. "No, I say, I am no fool, especially when I come back home and have to face situations like this and deal with people like your driver buddies". "You can call *9000 service and express your concern" he tells me as if hinting to something. "I will call tomorrow and make sure I complain about the other driver who wouldn't take me for what the meter was showing but for a set price". I think by this point he realized that I really was not a fool and decided to back his friend. "You know, you shouldn't, because we all are trying to earn money here". Aha! There we go- the essence of corruption and cheating has reached our veins, thank you dear Azerbaijani government for making sure of this. Its something you should be very proud of! 

Then comes the personal story- he was once hassled by a police officer. His driving license was taken, he had to pay bribes and so on and so forth. But then he decided to ask a "Russian speaking" friend (this is how he himself described him) "because you know, they know things and have read things" he says. His "Russian speaking" Gandalf the great tells him to complain. And so, the taxi driver finds himself at a police station (he recalls it was Nesimi but wasn't very sure) and tells the story. The prosecutor first asks him where the driver is from (because the prosecutor apparently senses the driver is a local, from Baku), the driver responds (he was from Baku). And so, here are the wise words of the prosecutor general who takes care of business "friend, these things- complaining as such- are not things for you to be doing, it doesn't suit it. These are 'cindir' (which literally means a piece of shred but when used in slang it basically means not worthy) actions". The funny thing is the prosecutor did help the driver and he did punish the police officer who harassed the driver in the first place but... 

Here is the morale (according to the driver)... Don't do "cindir" things like this, because its not nice. To which, of course, I immediately respond "protecting your rights and asking for what actually belongs to you and seeking justice is not "cindir". If you don't take care of yourself no one will". 

The man got quiet. I think he thought I was either a crazy woman saying weird things like rights, protection and etc.

He agreed surprisingly however. It was time for me to get off. The meter was showing 13,40. I gave me 15 (on top of that additional one). He didn't give me any change. I asked whether he was intending to. He said "I don't have any change". I kindly asked him to carry some smaller bills on him because not overcharging would make his next customer much happier when leaving the taxi. He said, this was a great ride. I also urged him to vote- the man had no idea (or so he pretended) about the upcoming elections. 

But there was something else he said that really got me. As I was telling him about the bills and all, he turned around and said to me "we haven't been tamed yet".

So where does that leave us friends? A country of untamed cheats?

The stability they show you

Perhaps, this is for the attention of the Council of Europe Parliamentary Assembly, perhaps this is for the attention of human rights watch organizations, perhaps its for nobody's attention after all nobody cares really at policy and decision making level abroad about rights, freedoms of Azerbaijani people. 

So perhaps I am addressing very those members of the parliament who voted against the resolution on political prisoners not so long ago. I must share with you, dear apologists and avid supporters, the brutality of Azerbaijani government, its so called democracy and respect for its people. Surely, this is not the kind of stability our officials talk about when they meet in Brussels, Strasbourg or DC. And surely, this is not what they show you when they invite you to lavish parties at consulates, embassies, residences of Azerbaijani ambassadors abroad. 

This is from a letter shared by journalists arrested during the riots in Ismayilli:

They keep people from Quba in terrible conditions. Those trialed in Khachmaz as "organizers" of Quba events were taken from Baku (Kurdakhani) to Khachmaz on a cargo train. They traveled the night, cold, on the bare floor of the compartment reaching their destination in the morning. In Khachmaz they are held in a room with an open sewage. They are sticking bottles into the hole of the sewage just so not to go crazy.

Sounds like a scene from a movie, but its not. This is real. This is present day Azerbaijan, and this is the country you dear apologists say is doing pretty well and there are no issues with human rights abuse. But do not worry, you are safe and you can have as much caviar as you want. Because this is the imaginary stable Azerbaijan you prefer to believe in.

Behind the tradition of Caviar Diplomacy

Could it be that the there are some "forces" (as our beloved government officials would say) in the European Parliament and PACE who are keen supporters of the Aliyev regime? It seems so. And here is why. 

On January 23rd, PACE members voted on two key resolutions on Azerbaijan- one on the country's obligations and commitments as a member state and the second one a resolution on political prisoners. Unfortunately as I said earlier, the caviar seems to be more important than political prisoners and their rights in Azerbaijan and so while the initial resolution passed with 196 in favor and 13 against, the latter stayed on paper with only 79 in favor, and 125 against.

Among those who seem to be avid fans of caviar and other luxury, are European Parliament member- Bulgarian Socialist Kristian  Vigenin, who is also the Euronest chair. Last year he organized a discussion with Elkhan Suleymanov- head of Azerbaijani delegation to the Euronest Parliamentary Assembly, to discuss the "unjust" resolution passed by the EP on the eve of Eurovision on the human rights record of Azerbaijan. Needless to say there were no reps. from the civil society, or opposition from Azerbaijan. 

Elkhan Suleymanov, was also among anti- Strasser report. In his statement following the voting Suleymanov accused Strasser of "biased and hostile" approach towards Azerbaijan. 

Apart from Vigenin, there are few others too, such as Kristina Ojuland (Estonian Liberal); Inese Vaidere (Latvian conservative); and Vytautas Landsbergis (also Lithuanian conservative). Looks like caviar can work its magic on everyone, whether you are a liberal, a conservative or avid defender of human rights abuses elsewhere but in Azerbaijan. 

These are the known faces of anti-human rights resolutions passed before too. Such as the resolutions on Emin and Adnan; Bakhtiyar Hajiyev; Rafig Tagi (may he rest in peace) and the most recent one on human rights that was passed before the Eurovision. 

If you haven't read it already European Stability Initiative published a comprehensive report on this matter titled "Caviar Diplomacy: How Azerbaijan silenced the Council of Europe (Part 1)". It is available for free on their website.

In that report, there is also a list of the so- called "apologists" for Azerbaijani regime. Among these are Maltese Joseph Debono Grech, Spain's Pedro Agramunt, Belgium's Paul Wille, UK's Mike Hancock, and Germany's Eduard Lintner and others who over time made it possible for instances such as the head of the PACE election observation mission declare past elections in Azerbaijan meeting international and CoE standards.

Ironically, these past few weeks only proved the dire situation Azerbaijani people live in. Starting from the publicized death of a young conscript; angered merchants protesting increase in rent; frustrated and fed up residents of Ismayilli and finally the protests organized in solidarity with people in Ismayilli in Baku.

But then the comfort of their seats miles away and generous presents from their special friends makes the struggle of Azerbaijani people miniscule doesn't it? Priorities vary...

As they dine, people get fined (photo story)

Source Launch of Nargiz Magazine

No comment, Protest in Baku on Jan. 12

No comment, Protest in Baku on Jan. 12. Source

No comment, Protest in Baku on Jan. 12. Source: Mehman Huseynov, IRFS

No comment, Protest in Baku on Jan. 12. Source: Mehman Huseynov, IRFS

Azerbaijan, where cost of life= cost of taking part in a protest

The lucky number of protestors arrested during a rally in Baku organized online and attended by few thousands on January 12th received their "verdicts". Each of the lucky 24 activists, were fined, ranging from as little as 300AZN (~300EUR) to as high as 600AZN with the total of fines adding up to 11150AZN.

Below is the list of names and their fines.

1. Ebulfez Gurbanli-500 AZN
2. Babek Hesenov-600 AZN
3. Renad Najafov-600 AZN
4. Rashad Hasanov-600 AZN
5. Zakir Rehmanov-400 AZN
6. Vusal Bayramov-500 AZN
7. Tural Abbasli - 600 AZN
8. Ulvi Hesenli 600 AZN
9. Mehemmed Ibrahim 500 AZN
10. Isayev Hemid 500 AZN
11. Kazimzade Azer 400 AZN
12. Elisoy Eltac 300 AZN
13. Subhi Hesenov 400,
14. Turgut Gambar 500 azn
15. Abil Huseynov 400 azn
16. Rail Abbasov 300 AZN
17. Turkel Azerturk 600 AZN
18. Ramin Hacili 450 AZN
19. Tezexan Mirelemli 500 AZN
20. Rauf Memmedov 300 AZN
21. Firuz Agayev-300 AZN

22. Tural Hasanzade- 600 AZN

23. Anar Agammedov-300 AZN
24. Nurlan Bayramov-400 AZN

Incidentally, the government is ought to pay around 10000AZN to the family of Ceyhun, the soldier, whose death caused such reaction and led to the protests organized on Saturday. 

Whether it is a coincidence that the amounts are so close to each other is a mystery. 

The young men, all were fined under the new law on mass gatherings, as a result of which fines were increased 30fold. 

January 12th Protest, Baku, and some rhymes

Last night, as I sat down to read up on the news and tweets from yesterday's protest in Baku, I thought of writing this. Seeing police officers carry peaceful protesters in their arms (literally); blood trickling down from a young man's face brutally treated by the police and those mothers and fathers, holding pictures of their dead sons. Mourning for their children who will never come back, demand justice  and yet our police, cared little of that.

Its not much- few sentences put together and a bit of rhyming.

 

They take, we sit in silence not saying much

They steal, we keep on sitting,  not caring much

They lie, we grow accustomed to things as such

And so we live, in silence, quiet, unattached

Pretending things are well as we detach

Ourselves, our families, and friends

From the reality and finally lost touch

With what is known as freedom and equal rights

But wait, am I asking already for too much?

No! Not much! Its time to act!

To get whats ours, and that's a fact!

No time to sit in silence and not say much

No time to care little or not as much

We can't afford to let ourselves detach

Together, as one voice we must react!

Google Tent in Baku: Debating Free Expression in Baku

Wanted to share the Google Tent event- the debate between Ali Novruzov and Rauf Mardiyev- organized in Baku on November 6th during the IGF 2012. I will add my comments later.

Internet Governance Forum without Internet

Yes, perhaps this is the first thing that comes to mind when I look back at the last few days of IGF2012 held in Baku, Azerbaijan. You would think this of all things would be organized and provided but no. Frankly, not surprised, after hearing from local staff that "we didn't consider Azerbaijani translation for the opening session" (yes, the OPENING session of the conference) or "there wont be any internet today" when I inquired about not working WiFi. 

But thats just logistical impressions. Putting aside all the incredible people I have met not to mention old faces that I have missed while being away, there has been some other highlights that I would love to share here. Like what was said by a representative from the GONGO Azer Hesret "not everything is bad in Azerbaijan, not everything is black in Azerbaijan" during a Joint Open Forum: EBU, CoE, UNESCO, OSCE: Safety of online media actors after Eynulla Fatullayev made a short speech listing many issues in Azerbaijan that do not necessarily make it look good. The strange thing is, pretty much all statements made during the forum by someone from the government or pro- government institution all focused on making counter statements rather than ask questions and address issues with all the representatives. I guess, no one (from the government, pro- government) really understood the point of this forum apart from proving something to the international audience who is already well aware of the reality on the ground.

And then there were some great quotes from work sessions I attended:

Freedom first before we start talking about regulation, Lee Hebberd 

We recognize the power of the Internet, its the oxygen for many people, Lee Hebberd

There is Democracy 2.0 but there is also Autocracy 2.0, Emin Milli

Governments have to make changes themselves, they know the rules, but often they don't respect them

Freedom of speech should be as normal as eating and drinking, EU Parliament representative

Whatever rights exist and guaranteed offline, should be guaranteed online, Lionel Veer

So these are my impressions so far in brief. Will write more once I have more time to reflect. 

Hijab debate in Azerbaijan

I have been meaning to write on this matter. But I have been putting it off for various reasons. I wont get in too many why's but a piece I just saw on NY Times prompted me to write few things on this matter. 

Azerbaijan is a predominantly Muslim country. According to this article that was published by Washington Post:

In Baku, an ancient seaport in which Zoroastrian ruins coexist with brilliantly lighted glass skyscrapers, young couples hold hands or embrace on park benches along the broad, tree-lined promenade that hugs the Caspian shoreline — public displays of affection that are officially banned in Tehran. Women and girls in designer jeans hunt for bargains at Western clothing stores such as Bebe and Benetton. Head scarves are rare, but karaoke bars and nightclubs are plentiful along the downtown thoroughfares choked with traffic and new construction.

Not that I found Washing Post article in any way correct, in fact, many things in the article weren't quite right but thats a different story. So back to religion, Islam, and predominantly Shia state, where "head scarves are rare but karaoke bars and nightclubs are plentiful" things are not as "brilliant" and "embraced" as the article claims. Moreover, if you read the NYT article, you would see that things are far than being calm. These clashes between Muslim activists and the government are not happening for the first time. There were others too especially after a ban on head scarves at schools in 2009. 

About two weeks ago, I had a conversation on Twitter about this issue. More precisely a young man asked me whether I was for or against hijab at schools. My response was negative. A child, or young female student should not be forced to wear hijab because the religious community wants her to. If its her decision when she comes of age then she could wear whatever she wants. The man on Twitter quickly accused me of immorality claiming I approved explicit clothing especially on younger girls. 

This type of thinking- that one can dress only one way or live only specific way- is a growing trend at home. And I am not afraid to make generalizations in this case. Let young women decide themselves whether they want to wear hijab or not and not impose that on them at a younger age. And don't tell me that this is what all Muslim women of all ages should do. We live in a world and a time when women spend twice as much time as men on domestic work; work longer hours; many women around the world still do not meet international standard for duration of maternity leave; becoming heads of state is still elusive with only 14% of women in the world holding some government position; women face daily violence- sexual, psychological, economic, social- at home and outside; because of existing traditions and so- called customs, women have limited access to land and other types of property; women have fewer cash income. 

So please don't tell me that all we have left to deal and solve is whether young girls of school age should be wearing a hijab at school. And even if all of the problems are solved, as I said, let the women decide themselves whether they want to wear a hijab or any other religious dress at an age when they can actually make these decisions themselves.

As for the WP article, well, I guess the writers should talk more about religion in Azerbaijan and how much it impacts lives of women (and not just simplify it to karaoke bars, young couples holding hands, and girls wearing designer clothes) in this country. And as for the clashes, well, there is little that could be done here as long as women are treated as objects of pressure...

Who cares about average pensioner in Azerbaijan when he/she can die knowing there is White City

Yes, we've done reforming, we've done changing, our people live in prosperity and all they need is Baku White City project because there is nothing else they want more. 

'Hypocrisy'

'Hypocrisy' is a short promo video about Azerbaijan and the hidden "treasures" behind Eurovision glitz and glamor.