Azerbaijan, the Oriental shame of the Caucasus

Perhaps the title rings a bell? 

Perhaps you have never seen this tourism ad titled "Azerbaijan, the European charm of the Orient"? 

Well now you know all about it. In fact, many readers of this blog are aware by now that Azerbaijan is no charm when it comes to its regime and the style of power- the dynasty of the orient even perhaps.

And the fact that Azerbaijani authorities refuse to accept any of the international criticisms and concerns only proves that there are deep scars that the government desperately tries to cover up like plastic surgeons do. Except in this case, its a very badly done plastic job (think boob job gone bad type of bad). 

There have been many reports, statements, petitions, signed, sealed, voiced and advocated for when it comes to the situation in Azerbaijan- poor (if not terrible) record of human rights, arrested activists, journalists, advocates; and more recently targeted youth, young members of existing political parties and movements and dirty media campaigns against well respected journalists. There have been many evaluations of the regime too- authoritarian, dictatorial, sultanistic, and more recently fascist. 

And as it is with many dictatorships around the world, in Azerbaijan nothing changes. So when the ruling party announced Ilham Aliyev as their candidate to run in the upcoming October Presidential elections, at least what they could have done is show some respect towards others- but behold, thats not part of the language they talk. So comments about other candidates were blatant if not silly to some extent. But then again, brains is another contested matter over there.

But none of this was the point of this post. I wanted to share with a you a timely video prepared by the Human Rights Watch highlight some of the most recent cases. You can also read their full 106page report, "Tightening the screws: Azerbaijan's Crackdown on Civil Society and Dissent.

I guess the odds will never be in the favor of Azerbaijani people. Not in these elections to say the least. Perhaps a charming oriental miracle?

#occupygezi through the lens of a foreigner

I wrote this post as a guest post for Erkan Saka's Field Diary. Wanted to share it here as well.

"I moved to Istanbul in 2007. The largest form of protest I witnessed back then was the march organized to protest the death of an editor and chief of weekly Armenian paper- AGOS. Never did it cross my mind that only few years later I am going to be part of something special, something that for some has been coined as the greatest thing that happened to the people of Turkey ever since the last coup in the 80s. 

Many faces of occupygezi 

There she was standing on the edge of a construction block throwing stones to the protesters. “Here take some more”, she was shouting through a medical mask that covered her face (a common accessory used by many of the protesters in Istanbul and across Turkey). I turned my camera and started taking photographs of this woman in her 50s, maybe 60s. It was hard to tell her age, only her graying hair was giving it away. For me she was just another icon of the #occupygezi protests similar to the woman in red and a woman in black (the list got longer as the protests escalated, with a young man playing a guitar boldly in front of TOMA vehicle, a naked man and later the standingman).  

All these people together with tens of thousands more were taking the streets protesting. For some occupygezi was about protecting nature, for others standing up for their rights, their freedoms, their choices and the authoritarian grip of the ruling Justice and Development Party.

I was in Taksim square on May 31^st, holding my camera and trying to breath through the thick smoke of tear gas. For the first time in my life, I tasted tear gas and pepper gas. For the first time in my life I saw water canons. The brutality of Turkish riot police reminded me of my home country Azerbaijan and how our police used violence to disperse crowds of people whenever they took the streets in recent years to protest its own government.

Later weeks became a routine- meetings with foreign journalists late at night, walks in Gezi Park, interviewing protesters, watching police intervene, and the never- ending feeling of resistance and solidary in the eyes of many of the faces of Gezi Park protests. 

My camera was ready, capturing moments, the faces, just like that woman-throwing stones. At times it felt peaceful and at times, the scenes in Taksim square, on Istiklal and in many parts of Turkey felt no less than war scenes from movies.  

Twitter and Vine became my best friends while covering the Gezi Protests. My camera and the photographs were proof of how one country and its brave people can change its destiny. 

These days, I feel a different kind of Turkey. I feel like people have finally woken up and are ready to challenge the government that isn’t too ready to accept this challenge and face the reality of the Turkey it has created and at times forced upon its people.

For many this is a new beginning. As a foreigner living in Turkey, this new beginning feels exhilarating. But what is more important is not to lose this momentum. There is a long path lying ahead of Turkey now. How it is shaped now depends on its people as much as it depends on its government. 

As for me… my camera is ready so as me, to see and be part of this change…" 

Taksim square- before and after the protests

Last night, as I joined residents of Istanbul in Taksim square for #standingman silent protest memories of how the square liked just few days back hit me pretty quickly. I have grown used to the crowd, there was something certainly very special in the air. Last night everything looked different. As if in fact nothing ever happened. 

And so, I thought I share the images below comparing the early days of protests, before police hit everyone pretty hard with violence and emptied the park with tear gas, sound bombs and violence.

p.s.: photography by me. if you are interested in more photos from the protests you can visit here, i have compiled all the photographs i have been taking of the protests in this album.

Dream of a young man- "Erdogan by Erdogan"

One of the best Gezi Park productions. Kudos to the creators! 

Basing the clip and the words on a song by Daft Punk "Giorgio by Moroder" the brain behind this idea did an amazing job. 

So sit back, relax, and enjoy the sound of Gezi Park and Erdogan's dream to crush his nation. 

 

Why Turks are unhappy?

After going to protests since May 31st, and documenting the past thirteen days of upheaval in Istanbul, here are just few of the reasons why the crowds are unhappy:

• mass urban development plans wherever the ruling govt. desires
• restrictions on alcohol sales
• the government's Syria policy
• reforms in education sector
• poverty
• unemployment (yes, despite the booming economy)
• controversy around abortion law
• arrested army officials on some deep state plotting charges 
• arrested journalists and artists

This list could probably go even longer, I just thought I name the ones that were mentioned more often than others in the course of the past almost two weeks now. 

The violent clashes have more or less subsided though reports of re-occurring clashes at night in other parts of the country still on- going. 

And yet, despite all thats been said, stated, mentioned and voiced, the ruling party leader, PM Erdogan prefers to talk about the booming economy of the recent years. Reforms stalled some time in 2007 and things are as great as AKP says. The ruling government successfully managed to "take over" some if not all institutions, companies, judiciary and media outlets and "appointed" those who are close to the government. 

I almost feel like that soon those outside of PM Erdogan's "love circle" are going to adopt the all-too-familiar by now slogan (albeit with a slight change) "we are the 50%". Most of the people I've spoken to at Gezi Park say thats how they see themselves- supporters of the regime vs. the rest of the country. 

One thing is certain, ever since the protests began, the biased reaction from Prime Minister and his continued stubbornness to see beyond his advisers already polarized a country of some 70 million. And a statement by Istanbul mayor today on the decision to continue with the construction plans based on the Prime Minister's desire could potentially trigger further resistance and discontent.

I guess we are all in for a long ride here so put on your Guy Fawkes masks and come to Gezi for the atmosphere... 

May 31st, Taksim Square

short video from the footage i had from May 31st and June 1st.

here is YouTube link if you cannot open it here for some reason.

Gas, watercannons, wounded, dismantled buses and cars- no, this is not a movie scene

Have you ever gone from a wedding to a protest? I have. Two nights ago my two buddies had a wedding. It was beautiful. Outside of the city chaos and mayhem we were surrounded by trees, clean (gas free) air, and of course, two happy people surrounded by their friends and family tying their knots for their lifetime. 

But all of us, friends, were torn. We spent a good half of the wedding checking Twitter (because traditional media been pretty much silent for the past few days) trying to stay tuned. Every minute there was something- but the worst news were coming from a neighborhood called Besiktas. Located not far from the Besiktas Soccer Stadium. Besiktas is a lively residential district popular not only among Besiktas soccer team fans but also among locals. The night before, some of my friends were there, but instead of enjoying the fresh fish from the local bazar or a stroll through some of the cobble stone streets, they were greeted with tear gas and police. For the past two nights, this neighborhood turned into a war zone - clashes between riot police and the protestors. There were many injured. People were tweeting pictures that looked nothing short of a movie set of some war/out-of-this-word zone.

The wedding was over, and so we drove back to city center. Talking to passer by who were coming back from Besiktas we didn't hear anything good- tear gas, pepper gas, some even thought police was using something called orange gas. To protect themselves protesters used a mix of talcid and water, milk, lemon, goggles, masks, hard construction hats- basically anything that can protect one's body against possible attack. 

We too packed our bags and started walking. It is hard to describe what I saw so I am just going to share photographs: 

Near Besiktas Inonu Stadium- night of June 2nd

Barricades on the way to Taksim near Besiktas Inonu Stadium- night of June 2nd circa 3am

More barricades

Taksim square- Morning of June 2nd, around 3.30am

I took photo above in the afternoon of June 1st, the photo below is the same spot at around 3am on June 2nd

Above Taksim square, May 31st, people running from tear gas, below Taksim square, June 2 early morning, people no longer running

"Don't be silent"

I came home frustrated. The looting was affecting the whole purpose of resistance. It was becoming violent and this was not the original intention. But then it was inevitable I suppose. The anger and frustration of the people has grown out of proportions and it is no longer about trees and park. Its about something much bigger- something that is called AKP. 

So far, the authorities have failed to understand this, and that is why people are continuing to resist. And looks like will continue because its no longer few hundred people, green activists protecting trees, its about over 60 cities of Turkey where thousands of people are protesting the regime and calling for PM's resignation.

Stay tuned, more updates are coming.

To built a mall or save a park- that is the question

But not for the officials of Turkey. In the heart of Istanbul there is a square known to many of this city visitors as Taksim Square. We the locals call it Taksim and its often a meeting point. Right next to this square there stands a very pretty park- Gezi. Few days ago the state officials announced its plans to destroy the park and built yet another shopping mall in this booming historical city (By the end of 2013 the number of total shopping malls in Istanbul alone is estimade to reach 133). Why? Its a good question an answer to which has not been given- at least not by those very state officials, not yet.

Today I'm here (May 31st) just like many residents of Istanbul demanding anullment of the construction plans and keeping the park safe and the area green. I breathed in wonderful tear gas, I saw many injured people, police use watercannons to disperse the crowds and its not over yet. The clash between peaceful protesters and violent police continues. Its been going on for the past few days and looks like will persist.

Unfortunately I cannot post any photos at the moment as I am in a remote location but will share some of the sound records and ımages later as soon as I get a chance.

For now please follow #direngeziparki for furhter updates on Twitter and share whats happening here. All that people want is to protect their park.

Spirit of resistance

Wanted to share with you (and apologies for my long absence) an inspirational video of two men, from two different countries, from two different struggles but sharing one familiar and common story. Their story and the story of their struggle. 

I had the privilege to meet both of them this year at the School of Authentic Journalism (more on that in another post) in Mexico. They truly are inspirational just like their story. 

With no further ado I present you Mkhuseli "Kusta" Jack from South Africa and Oscar Olivera from Bolivia.

Azerbaijan: Suits, uniforms, body ache

On March 10^th, Azerbaijani citizens came together to protest the deaths of military conscripts. Many held the photographs of a deceased young soldier, an 18-year-old conscript Ceyhun Gubadov whose initial death report said the young man died of a heart failure. The young man however was the victim of physical mistreatment. Gubadov wasn’t the first, nor is he the last conscript to lose a life in suspicious, undefined circumstances (most often hazing and abuse), which usually are covered by fake medical reports.  

Police ordered demonstrators to disperse given the rally was unsanctioned. Men in uniforms and plain clothed police however resorted to violence quickly using water cannons, rubber bullets and force in an attempt to scare the protestors. 

The poem below is about my emotions and feelings- what came out as a result of recent events at home. 

"suits and uniforms"

Making up your mind

Waking up to the reality

Slowing down the pace

Of life, of yet another sanity

I’m suffocating

These men in suits and uniforms

They mutilate me

Not physically but mentally

My body aches

From mental wounds

From their insanity

They are killing me

Gradually

They are suffocating me

Slowly

They mutilate me

Reducing living cells

Of my lucidity

I reach the point

In my life

When questioning the “suits” and “uniforms”

Makes no more sense

As they are senseless

They are still

Not physically but mentally

They hurt, they suffocate

Both physically and mentally

They say it’ll pass

But when and how

And will my body, mind and soul

Keep up the fight

The struggle

And find the strength

To see the light and day

When men in suits and uniforms no longer there

To mutilate and suffocate

To let me go

To let us go

To live a life

No longer scared,

No longer hurt

But that’s a dream,

Too far from the reality

And as I wake up

And see reality

My body aches

Not physically but mentally

And once again

I start to lose my sanity

"Freedom fighters"

I wrote this short piece for WEast Magazine in the light of recent events back home. I thought I share it here on my blog as well.

A story of us…

Who are we? Where do we come from? What do we do? The answers to these questions are fairly simple. In some countries these questions would not even be asked. But in the country where I come from, these are very important questions. Sometimes your background and your status are more important than who you truly are in this society. Oh yes, don’t be surprised. It is simply a fact of life in a small country known to the rest of the world as Azerbaijan. We are the young, educated, intelligent, active, engaged citizens of Azerbaijan. We are the 20 something, 30 something, and 40 something citizens who still envisage Azerbaijan to be a better country for its citizens. We all come from Azerbaijan, from the beautiful North, from the colourful South, from the middle, from the top. Some of us saw the collapse of the Soviet Union, some of us remember those days through stories told by our parents. Some of us never saw the Union, and were born after independence. We work, study, try to make our home a place we are proud of. That is all… But then, that would be too simple an explanation in an overly complicated world of politics, dirty games and – what many often underestimate – selfish leaders.

Things are tough here. Being outspoken, having an opinion, being an individual with a set of ideals and knowledge is not something that one can be proud of. These things might cost you a lot, above all- freedom. And this is not just about physical freedom but a freedom of mind.

Recently one such free mind, known to many of us here and friends around the world, was detained unlawfully. He was taken away by plain-clothed men without explanation, right in front of his work place in bright day light. Ruslan Asad didn’t do anything wrong. He rightly used his right to think, to act, and to say what he thinks is right. But that is of no value back home- unless your mind acts in a “certain” way. He was released after a few hours, but there is a chance he will be called back in for further questioning on his workplace- the National Democratic Institute (the director of which allegedly asked Ruslan to resign after March 10th, when Ruslan was detained during peaceful demonstrations against hazing and abuse of conscripts in the Azerbaijani military service. This rally as all the other “unsanctioned” rallies was dispersed by the local police using tear gas, rubber bullets and water cannons), and the relationship between NDI and youth organizations. The interest in the youth organizations is a result of a recent article published by journalist Eynulla Fatullayev holding NDI responsible for investing $2million in what Fatullayev calls a “Facebook Revolution”. Needless to stay, the allegation was dismissed by NDI.

Ruslan wasn’t the only young Azerbaijani detained that day. Rashad Hasanov, another activist and a member of one of the youth organizations- N!DA Citizens’ Movement, was also detained. He remains in custody. According to his lawyer Asabali Mustafayev, the young man is facing charges of possession of illegal weapons. If found guilty Hasanov faces up to 8 years in prison.

Surely these arrests were politically motivated. Prior to protests held on March 10, three other members of N!DA were arrested. According to local police records, Molotov cocktails and drugs were found in their apartments and they were accused of plotting a revolution. A video of the three admitting their “crimes” was aired later in the day though their lawyers and families say this was all staged and the three were forced to confess.

And so, we are the people who are harassed, arrested and detained, simply because someone can do this to us. But despite everything, we are hopeful, I am hopeful that things will change in our homeland. Because we deserve change. I deserve change. Ruslan deserves change. Rashad deserves change. Azerbaijani citizens deserve a better place to think, to write, to share and to live. And one day, our leaders will understand the importance of this necessary change. Because we cannot afford any more generations lamenting the decay in rights, freedoms and morals…

By Jahangir Yusif

By Jahangir Yusf

Different perspectives

A look from the OSCE's Ambassador office and the streets of Baku. Indeed as you rightly put Ambassador Targay there are "good results at the police forces and in rapid deployment forces". They are getting better and better with each protest.

'Cultures of Resistance'

'Cultures of Resustance' is a documentary that shows how creativity and innovation can be used in the struggle for peace and justice. Below is the official trailer of the documentary, but you can read more about the documentary itself, screening times, and the director here. 

Cultures of Resistance:  The Official Trailer from Cultures of Resistance on Vimeo.

'Egypt: how we did it, when media would not' (Part 2)

Back in May I shared with you a video prepared by NarcoNews' Al Giordano and Greg Berger on Egypt's revolution in the making. Today, I present you the second part of these series- "The Other Revolution in Egypt: an interview with Mohammed Abbas of the Muslim Brotherhood".

[...] The regime placed that [hatred] in us. It planted in us hatred of each other. It planted in us the idea that we don't like each other so that it could control us...

'Barrel of Laughs'

Ivan Marovic talks about Otpor- Serbian movement that brought down Milosevic in 2000- and about 'dilemma action' used widely by the movement. 

Prepared by the authentic journalists at the School of Authentic Journalists is a great insight into movements and tactics in just two minutes.

'Egypt: how we did it, when media would not'

We all knew what was happening there. Some of us were following the story in the news, some on social networks, others were covering the news on the spot. The #jan25 was born there. And what was a building struggle for years became a number one priority for 18 days on the agenda of the international media. Yes, it was the Egyptian Revolution.

In March, exactly one month after the revolution, Al Giordano and Greg Berger went to Egypt in search of what to become a series of videos/ stories featuring some of the key people behind the #jan25- a manual on how civil resistance was built to win. Why? Well, simply because they wanted to know how it was done but more importantly they wanted to show the world how it was done, what was it like and in what circumstances it was happening.

Today, Narco News TV proudly presents its first video in the series of a documentary on Egyptian Revolution.