Let's get married... At the Olympic Stadium!

For a while now, we have known much too well that some of the decisions made by the authorities in Azerbaijan aren't always the brightest and are not always [or shall I say not at all?] intended for the people. 

Now, take of instance the Olympic Stadium the government spent over $640million for unnecessary European Games which neither the people nor the country with devalued currency really needed to host. Now that the faith of the next Games hangs by a threat [not that there was much hope anyway from the start] and following second devaluation, and crisis in the country, there has been a decision to use the venue for weddings. "You can hold smaller banquets and weddings", reads the announcement on the official website.  

Now for glitz and glamour drive some very wealthy Azerbaijanis this is wonderful news. Because not many could afford a wedding celebration that would cost 100-150AZN per head [this just makes me want to laugh and cry at the same time thinking about struggling families, men and women barely making a minimum wage and managing to survive]. 

So basically the rich will party, and what not a better way to party than on the Olympic Stadium- imagine the stories you can tell your friends years later- we got marred on the stadium! 

One of the officials to embrace the idea was the Minister of Sports who said he has actually seen this happen in Madrid. So curious me went on Google to find out the lucky couples who have tied the knot in Madrid. Unfortunately I didn't find anything. Wonder if the Minister could share some of the examples. 

For those making profits out of this, this might mean good cash. Who knows who is behind this "wonderful" idea?! 

And here is another recent development lacking any common sense. At least to me. Remember the Formula 1 race Azerbaijan is to host this June? Well, turns out it isn't just a one time thing. Apparently, there is a contract Azerbaijan signed and it ought to comply for the next five years with all the requirements and if need be host as many races because that's part of the deal. And that if it refuses to comply it will have to pay a hefty fine! 

Just a small reminder that officially these games are costing Azerbaijan $12million. Unofficially there is a talk about 150million.The minister of Youth and Sports was quick to dismiss the latter saying soon there will be official reports on all of the spending [please bring me popcorn when and if that happens] and that there is no way it can cost 150million but failed to provide any sensible breakdown of all expenditures [because apparently it would be very difficult for him to sight all the figures- haha! humor me place!] 

In the meantime, the government found ways to "save" on other things like for instance cutting off electricity after 10pm. 

Of course, who cares about the homes where there is no heating and the only heating there is comes from electric heaters and so on. Who cares about homes where there are babies. Who cares that there are elderly people. Who cares! And thats the whole logic of this country. Because nobody cares. Not one decision maker on top does not care or has something else in their heads instead of brains. 

I wonder if this curfew also would extend to Olympic Stadium weddings...

A country of untamed cheats?

As I stepped outside of the gates, a man approached me quickly, asking whether I needed a taxi. I politely declined, as polite as one can be at 4am in the morning. It didn't take another minute when another driver approached me, quickly following with my space. I once again declined, but he pressed. And so I got into his cab. He said there is a meter in the car but when I heard him ask me how much I usually pay I knew there was something fishy. And fishy it was. The man wanted to charge me 30manat (approx. 30EUR) for a ride that costs half of that (I know because I have taken taxis from the airport home before). He then suggested I leave my suitcase in the car while I negotiate with the other taxis because "trust me sister" he said, "thats how much you are going to pay no matter what". My patience was slowly running out. For some reason he then suggested that I take a cab of another taxi driver (of the same company) but who already had a passenger. "So what there is a passenger, she is a woman, you can go together" (and that was after he suggested he takes another passenger). Angrily I crossed the street while the men continued shouting behind me (did I mention that it was raining?). I reached a London cabbie. The driver did not let me open the door- he first asked where I was going. Unhappy with the destination he then asked how much I would pay- to which I snapped and said "whatever your meter shows". He said 20manat, I said it costs 14 tops. He didn't give in but yelled at another London cabbie driver telling me its his turn anyway (but if I was to pay 20 it would have been his turn?)

By this point, I am angry. My "new" driver, says not to pay attention, which his attitude apparently to everything as I later learn in the car. 

We take off. He first asks me if I have local currency. I say yes, to which he asks a following question "do you have change?". I had few 1manat bills left from my last trip. I handed 1manat bill to him asking whether this is a new regulation- passengers paying for the parking too? To which he said no, it just he didn't have any change. 

We continue. I look at the meter, and its "flying". I ask the driver, whether this is normal. He says that its absolutely normal and that I should not worry (who said I was worried, contrary, I was FRUSTRATED). "I see you are not a fool" he says to which I simply start laughing. "No, I say, I am no fool, especially when I come back home and have to face situations like this and deal with people like your driver buddies". "You can call *9000 service and express your concern" he tells me as if hinting to something. "I will call tomorrow and make sure I complain about the other driver who wouldn't take me for what the meter was showing but for a set price". I think by this point he realized that I really was not a fool and decided to back his friend. "You know, you shouldn't, because we all are trying to earn money here". Aha! There we go- the essence of corruption and cheating has reached our veins, thank you dear Azerbaijani government for making sure of this. Its something you should be very proud of! 

Then comes the personal story- he was once hassled by a police officer. His driving license was taken, he had to pay bribes and so on and so forth. But then he decided to ask a "Russian speaking" friend (this is how he himself described him) "because you know, they know things and have read things" he says. His "Russian speaking" Gandalf the great tells him to complain. And so, the taxi driver finds himself at a police station (he recalls it was Nesimi but wasn't very sure) and tells the story. The prosecutor first asks him where the driver is from (because the prosecutor apparently senses the driver is a local, from Baku), the driver responds (he was from Baku). And so, here are the wise words of the prosecutor general who takes care of business "friend, these things- complaining as such- are not things for you to be doing, it doesn't suit it. These are 'cindir' (which literally means a piece of shred but when used in slang it basically means not worthy) actions". The funny thing is the prosecutor did help the driver and he did punish the police officer who harassed the driver in the first place but... 

Here is the morale (according to the driver)... Don't do "cindir" things like this, because its not nice. To which, of course, I immediately respond "protecting your rights and asking for what actually belongs to you and seeking justice is not "cindir". If you don't take care of yourself no one will". 

The man got quiet. I think he thought I was either a crazy woman saying weird things like rights, protection and etc.

He agreed surprisingly however. It was time for me to get off. The meter was showing 13,40. I gave me 15 (on top of that additional one). He didn't give me any change. I asked whether he was intending to. He said "I don't have any change". I kindly asked him to carry some smaller bills on him because not overcharging would make his next customer much happier when leaving the taxi. He said, this was a great ride. I also urged him to vote- the man had no idea (or so he pretended) about the upcoming elections. 

But there was something else he said that really got me. As I was telling him about the bills and all, he turned around and said to me "we haven't been tamed yet".

So where does that leave us friends? A country of untamed cheats?

Spirit of resistance

Wanted to share with you (and apologies for my long absence) an inspirational video of two men, from two different countries, from two different struggles but sharing one familiar and common story. Their story and the story of their struggle. 

I had the privilege to meet both of them this year at the School of Authentic Journalism (more on that in another post) in Mexico. They truly are inspirational just like their story. 

With no further ado I present you Mkhuseli "Kusta" Jack from South Africa and Oscar Olivera from Bolivia.

Atletico Madird, 20 million euros and SOCAR

What these three have in common? For those who follow soccer games these days, you will know- Atletico Madrid, signed a "strategic agreement" with Azerbaijan to feature the ad. According to this article [SP] the soccer team will receive more than 20 million EUR. One of the parties involved in this contract is SOCAR.

Wonder if it is a coincidence that while apa.az reported the news, it "forgot" to mention the agreed amount but made sure to name all the signing parties including the "leadership of Baku". 

A Twitter user tweeted that its "cool stuff" and I would have agreed be it a different country and different circumstances but unfortunately is not nearly as cool as he thinks...

Yes, it is a PR, perhaps wonderful way to advertise a country but at what cost?

Struggle continues

While Mehman Huseynov was released (though the hooliganism charges still stand until investigation is over), Azerbaijani government still remains a repressive regime charging innocent men with hooliganism and drug possession. The struggle must continue and further attempts of arrests on bogus charges must end.

The Eurovision might be over, the spotlight is gone, but the country remains known for its poor human rights record and free press. And while Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton gave a clear sign that democracy in Azerbaijan is not a priority for the US anymore and so have EU officials (well, some of them to say the least, in particular Council of Europe), I am hopeful that Azerbaijan has the potential to change and become the true democracy. Its human rights advocates deserve it. Its journalists deserve it. Its people deserve it.

So the struggle still continues...

Smart dictators in modern age

It was an article I was reading in Foreign Policy and titled "The Dictators are Smarter Than You Think" that got me to question the leadership of Azerbaijan, which too is often referred to as being a dictatorship. But where did that got us? I mean, where have all the criticisms, all the low rankings, or else got us? It certainly didn't change the leadership if not made it worse- harsher, blatant and more open in fact in what it does. In fact, it feels as if criticisms aimed at Azerbaijani leadership feed the roots of this regime making it far more dictatorial (with few exceptions here and there as release of journalists and activists).

Now the article bases itself on a book by Dobson, "The dictator's leaning curve: inside the global battle for democracy". "In many cases Dobson writes, modern dictators understand that its in their [dictators] interest to observe the appearance of democratic norms even while they're subverting them", which explains perfectly well some of the sudden improvement like instances (such as release of donkey bloggers, and other similar cases). The country's leadership understands that full isolation of the country and its people wont be the same as it would have been say several decades ago. The rules of politics have changed but so has the game. 

So instead of cutting ourselves completely from the world, we boast of our new successes and developments, modern streets and buildings while keeping a tight lid on media, human rights advocates and the rest of things that doesn't represent development and modernity for our government.

Whats left to do is to sit tight and wait for a day, minute, month or whatever that is and hope for the best or continue learning, reading, sharing and making sure that awareness is there, knowledge is there, lust for change is there and work on making our dictatorships transform to democracies (well in Azerbaijani case we already are a democracy, what I meant to say, a real democracy in this case). Good luck to us all!

Reconciliation and its importance

What is reconciliation and how it is perceived by people around the world who have lived through conflicts and the pain of it all? This and some other insights about the phenomenon of reconciliation were discussed this year at the Narco News School of Authentic Journalism 2012 in a roundtable discussion moderated by Andrew Stelzer who works at Making Contact: National Radio Project.

The four speakers were Ivan Marovic, Ahmad Mahmoud, Anele Mdzikwa and me. You can listen to the interview here or visit the official website where you would find more information about the speakers, their work and the projects.

Ah the Eurovision!

Source: Google Images

The Eurovision is fast approaching. The country hosting the competition this year- Azerbaijan- is also fast approaching. You know what? The mere ridiculousness of its current spending allocated to the contest. And we are not talking of few thousand of dollars here. In fact, this country is fast approaching the title of  being one of the few (if not the only since no one would invest so much in a silly song contest) countries in the whole history of the song contest. 

Why? To show- off would be the likely answer (and also because there is no logical one really!). The irony is that while it invests millions (USD75.7 to be precise) in a glitz event of the year, the government continues to keep a tight lid on its other spending like education, health care or social care. But I wont be writing about that this time. Instead, I am going to write about a very "generous contribution"that was allocated to the veterans of the WWII just yesterday. Get ready for the numbers ladies and gents because while we waste millions we cannot afford going over 500AZN [RUS] for the people who really are the heroes (ehm... no offense to Ell and Nikki who are too considered "heroes" by many in Azerbaijan) of this country (the money allocated takes into account families and widows of the veterans). The total amount allocated makes around AZN7.5million. 

I just don't understand why waste so much money on something thats going to last for few days when you can built a better future and provide sufficient support to those who are in need and on constant basis rather than one- time only installments as a sign of noble charity? 

What a silly question though, because no one cares about sustainable development. We should spend more now on useless things like Eurovision so that tomorrow, when we have nothing left, we can take apart the Crystal Hall (Eurovision concert hall) and use it for barter when everyone starts running scared (minus the mountains, the sea, and most importantly the dog) from Azerbaijan...

Movement for Peace with Justice and Dignity- commemorates its first year

On March 28th, the Movement for Peace with Justice and Dignity (MPJD) held its one year anniversary in a struggle to put an end to the drug war in Mexico. The School of Authentic Journalism 2012 covered the commemoration held in Cuernavaca on that day. To read more about the event click here. You can also search for #MPJD on Twitter to read some of the many live tweets sent that day from the main square in Cuernavaca.

And here is a video prepared by the School for the one year anniversary of the movement available both in English (see below) and Spanish. 

The movement needs any support so please join us and spread the word. 

Baku- a year later, changes are there but what about conscience?

My heart was racing. I was standing at the passport control at Haydar Aliyev International Airport. I was nervous. After being called a traitor, an agent and many other negative things by our beloved media, it was my first time home since my last visit to Baku in December of last year. I was nervous and millions of unpleasant thoughts for pacing through my mind. 

Few minutes down the waiting line, a woman in crispy uniform with a pretty smile said "Welcome home!" and stamped my passport. I was smiling too. Now when I think of that moment, I can feel the heavy weight lifting off my shoulders. 

I was excited to be back. 

But Baku didn't change. Apart from new constructions, a bit of usual glitz here and there everything was the same. The sad and stern looks on people's faces were everywhere- on the streets, on public transportation. The daily concerns did not disappear as quickly and as easy as some parts of old Baku destroyed for new construction projects and other mind blowing changes planned for the new Baku.

And though this may sound too dramatic, it felt like I was back in a country that had no future. Yes, and you might not agree with it. You don't have to agree with it. But, we, the citizens of Azerbaijan have no future because our future is being taken away from us. The life, the standards, the country we could possibly have one day, remains a distant dream, hidden inside of people like Bakthiyar Hajiyev who is still serving his unjustly given sentence in prison. 

I thought of the people sitting behind their desks up there watching their Baku and ours, taken apart piece by piece, people forced to misery- all aware of where we have come. Surely, these officials are also aware that no matter how many new buildings they construct, or facades build, they will never cover the reality- poor health care, deteriorating education, non- existent social care and most importantly human relations (you might say how is that relevant, but it is. If you suffocate people so much, no one is going to care about others, its all going to become one big survival of the fittest struggle, if not it has already become so). 

New Baku looks nice, but who is it for? You can "renovate" as many schools as you want, as many hospitals as you want, but if those who work there hold on to their old habits, all of this "beautification" is pointless. If young men on the metro don't know how to behave, if people litter the streets, if no one respects a line in front of an ATM machine- then none of them are going to understand the new Baku. They simply don't care! And why would they- if they struggle with their daily lives, if they need to take care of sick parents, if they need to pay a bribe at their local school or university...

Its just sad. Seeing how much is wasted, the potential human resources, and most importantly the potential future we might have. Its recklessly going away as if we are eternal, as if what have is infinite. We all are going to leave this world one day, but its the next generations who are going to stay behind and struggle with what we are leaving behind. 

Albert Camus once said "by definition, a government has no conscience. Sometimes it has a policy, but nothing more". Today Azerbaijani government has a policy- arrest, silence, forget, bribe, renew, rebuilt and don't look back. The question is, what policy will it have tomorrow? 

Let them eat cake returns (a meter longer)

President of Azerbaijan, Ilham Aliyev turned 50 years old. He has been in power since 2003 and claims to have a democratic, free, economically developed country. To congratulate him on his outstanding contributions to Azerbaijan and its people in the last eight years, the city of Sumgayit (allegedly a group of local businessmen) decided to prepare a birthday cake. But this was no ordinary cake. And it wasn't the businessmen in their fancy suits who did it either. Supposedly this is the biggest cake by size even in Europe (if not the whole world) said the Sumgayit city official with much pride on his face. 

Last year, it was the city of Ganja that built the biggest cake to celebrate President's 49th birthday. Looks like this is becoming a tradition. I am wondering which city is going to proudly announce its biggest birthday cake next year.

According to local news, the cake is 50meters long. Last year it was 49 (you can read about it here). You can watch the video [AZ] below. The man talking at the very beginning of the video is the head of the city executive administration. My favorite part is when the cameraman shows random kids asking them what the cake is for- some don't have a clue, others think its for celebrating Heydar Aliyev's birthday. Given how quickly people were taking the cake apart, it was good.

I only wish that the democracy the President Aliyev so often talks about, comes to Azerbaijan sooner than later. Perhaps this is what the President secretly wished for as well when blowing the candles on his birthday cake?!

'The World of Social Media'

Could it be? Is Azerbaijan finally becoming like Europe?

Of course not, but it did sound nice didn't it?! 

As I was reading the new issue of TIME (September 26, 2011) I came across an article titled "Irked about perks. Italians are growing tired of picking up the check for their pampered politicians" by Stephen Faris reporting from Rome.

I thought it was ironic, given the resemblance of the situation in oil rich Azerbaijan. As Azerbaijani higher echelons made of ministers, president's closest aid and their families enjoy "opulent life styles" with lavish holidays, extravagant spending, luxury homes and dachas, Azerbaijani people are fed the one very simple line- "Azerbaycan xalqin rifahi gunden gune artir" ("Azerbaijan's well- being grows day-by-day).

Italian politicians lack any evidence of sobriety, just like Azerbaijani ruling elite. Any criticism is dismissed though finally Azerbaijani authorities did at least accept the fact that there is corruption. Not that it has done anything about it except to dismiss few government employees and civil servants here and there. Did that end corruption? Of course not. Did that end or at least vaguely cover up the lavishness? Of course not!

Take Azerbaijani National Parliament for instance. Does living conditions outside of the parliament impact Azerbaijani parliament members' daily lives? Do any of them bother arguing for improving life standards of average citizens? Do they even care to begin with? We all know (yes and that includes pretty much every single international institution or representative present in the country and abroad) that Azerbaijan failed to have democratic elections in the last, what, some 20 years now. And that pretty much every single person sitting in that parliament is a useless sack of potatoes (no offense for those who actually do things).

And yet, when it comes to Italy, people protest, they are fed up, while in Azerbaijan silence of millions of lambs continues at its usual pace. Behold, you shall not speak or utter a word because unlike Italy, Azerbaijani authorities are not so keen and enthusiastic about giving up "la dolce vita".

The new Baku, demolishing and “beautifying”

This is an article I recently wrote for Osservatorio Balcani e Caucaso.

The women in a video recently posted on Rfe/Rl website are desperately screaming protesting violation of their rights; a man in the background shouts “şərəfsiz” [AZ] (without dignity); the building hosting the offices of the human rights organization “Institute for Peace and Democracy” and two other NGOs is being demolished. The whole scene resembles chaos. Young men start demolishing the building in front of desperate people that look helplessly at the scene, then cranes intervene.

This demolition is part of an urban development project- a new park known as the ‘Winter Boulevard’. Angered men and women in this video are residents of this old neighborhood of Baku that is being destroyed. They were not alone in protesting against the demolition of this building. The UN high commissioner for human rights expressed concern regarding this event, while the European Union representative in Baku and Human Rights Watch openly condemned the demolition. 

“Beautifying” the city comes at high costs 

The ‘Winter Boulevard’ project is said to be under the supervision of the first lady, Mehriban Aliyeva. Nonetheless, the authorities don't seem to care about answering to the questions and demands of the local residents forcefully evicted from their homes. The body in charge of the demolition is the Baku City Council, however, its officials remain silent about the issue. The area envisaged for the construction of this project is partially a historical district of an old Baku with some of the buildings dating as far as to the 19^th century. Besides, the majority of destroyed buildings that carried historical significance were supposed to be protected according to a decision previously adopted by the Cabinet of Ministers.

And yet, neither demands by local resident nor history seem to matter for the local authorities. The demolition of this area situated between two main streets, Shamsi Badalbayli and Fuzuli, began in 2010. The residents were each offered 1500manat/ square meter (US1,900). However, unsatisfied with the offer  (the amount doesn’t meet the present day value of these properties) residents took the matters into their own hands and headed to the Presidential Administration office (February 2010). Unable to get any results there, they then decided to try to protest in the streets (February 2010) only to be dispersed by the local police. In March the frustrated residents decided to hold a conference at the Human Rights House. Their attempts continued with a hunger strike in the courtyard of one of the old buildings scheduled for its demolition. Nothing worked and according to the Rfe/Rl local service some of the evictions and relocations were carried out without an official paper except for a 2008 decision, which interestingly calls for an execution of 1987 plan issued by the Council of Ministers of Azerbaijan SSR on the construction of the Winter Boulevard.

Last year, Osservatorio published an article describing some of the most worrying features of the construction boom: Baku’s location on an active seismic zone; absence of a general urban and development plans for the city; demolition of Baku’s historically significant buildings and old residential districts; un-notified and forced evictions; unequal compensation packages and much more. In fact, little changed in year. 

 

New Baku with its slowly fading beauty

Little is left from a city that was once home to the likes of “Ali and Nino”, the oil barons and its pathways. Baku is now a booming capital of construction, pricey real estate, luxury cars and boutiques- at a glance a city of wealth and stature. Its future is guaranteed by the country’s “black gold” with no one questioning the sustainability of these developments and constant changes to the capital’s landscape as a result of new construction projects. Rapid growth in the real estate market brought to the development of some the most extravagant construction projects in the last decade. 

Some of these over-the-top projects include Baku White City project, which involved re-construction of the main downtown area, adding ten new districts and with a total development area of 221ha. Its partners include names like UK’s ATKINS, F&A Architects, and Foster and Partners. According to the developers the project includes 440,000 sq.m of office space, 230,000 sq.m of retail space, 3,600,000 sq.m of residential space and 530,000 sq.m of commercial space. 

In the meantime while the local authorities indulge themselves in these copious ideas, according to a Human Rights Watch report, residents are forced out of their homes in the middle of the night, and detained while their homes are being destroyed with most of their personal belongings, either damaged or missing. Interestingly, based on the country’s property code [AZ], the state can only seize or purchase property if it’s planning to build a new road, a railway, or military building. Also, according to the decision of the Cabinet of Ministers a legal contract must be signed with the property owner; the owner given 90 days notice; and provided with transportation during the re-location. Moreover, there is even a Presidential Decree from 2007 stating that the owner shall be paid 20% more of the market price in order for the landowner stay satisfied.

Time for real change? 

While some might say that coming first in the Eurovision song contest this year in Düsseldorf was a great success for Azerbaijan, it is yet to be seen how the country’s leadership will choose to improve its image abroad. Having lavish boutique shops that cater only for the country’s small percentage of nouveau riche certainly does not mean democracy or fair distribution of oil revenues. Nor does it stand for addressing the needs and demands of the public at large let alone those suffering from the loss of their homes. 

The transformation of this capital city into a glamorous metropolis no doubt means much for investment hungry contractors and companies, however, perhaps it is also time to look at the destruction caused by these up- scale developments especially as they seem to come at the cost of lives and homes of ordinary people.

Demolition of houses in Azerbaijani continues (Updated)

Demolition of residential units in Azerbaijan continues, and not just in the main downtown area. Here is a snippet of one of the buildings being demolished for construction of a concert hall. Ironically, demolished house is located near the "highest flagpole".



Just now, an article [AZ] appeared on the Radio Liberty local service, reporting on new houses being demolished with residents actually living inside of these buildings. According to the article, none of the residents were given new housing but already demolition and eviction are on its way. 

The state institution in charge- State Committee on Property Issues- and its department head Yusif Qambarov refused to respond to questions of the news portal. 

In the meantime demolition continues in the neighboring area where Peace and Democracy Institute was once located.    

Another demolition, another eviction

Today, the office of the Peace and Democracy Institute was slowly taken apart by some random men along hundreds of homes and office spaces destroyed and demolished in one of the oldest areas of the capital of Azerbaijan. The authorities are planning to erect a winter boulevard on that area. 

The video below is the footage from today- how that office is taken apart piece by piece. The yelling women in the video are demanding for the resignation of the president, and his aid, calling them traitors and violators of human rights. The yelling man outraged promises that one day the homes of Ilham Aliyev, Ramiz Mehtiyev and others like them will be destroyed, their dictatorship will be destroyed just like that.

These men and women can yell as much as they want, their voices will only remain in this video. Azerbaijani authorities made it clear many times before that they don't care about its people. They only care about the sheep that quietly follows them. And as to the people?! Well, who are they for the Azerbaijani leadership?! They will and do just crush them, just as they crushed those homes...

I don't want a Bentley dealership

I have written on this occasion before- Baku's unprecedented construction boom has been reported a number of times and keeps on popping in the news then and now. High rise buildings, expensive boutique shops, however all built at the expense of others. The lavish spending by the authorities and the few who can actually afford the luxury have chosen to close their eyes and forget about the others- pretty much the rest of the country. 

Who cares about people being evicted from their homes, when rich businessman can buy himself a Bentley from the shopping center in Baku? Thats right, the exclusiveness one can get here, could hardly be found in a village in the outskirts of the country. 

But again, who cares about them, Azerbaijani authorities are notorious for their "love" and "care" for its people- yes, in our dreams that is. 

And so, yes, I don't want a Bentley dealership, nor do I want a winter boulevard, especially as its being build at the expense of residents who used to live in that old area of Baku. 

I still have pictures of what is now just rubbles. I used to stroll down those narrow streets until I would reach the Fountain Square but that I guess is just left in a distant memory of my Baku and I am savoring it as who knows whats going to happen next in Baku. 

To read more on Azerbaijan's construction boom click:

- Azerbaijan: halt illegal house demolitions, forced evictions (Human Rights Watch);

- Winners and losers in the new Baku (BBC News);

"Let them eat cake"

RFE/RL

We all know this famous expression from our history classes. "Qu'ils mangent de la brioche" which is the original version of this expression was supposedly said by Queen Marie Antoinette when she was told that peasants had nothing to eat. It is contested whether she actually said these words but whether she did it or not, it was the first thing that came to mind when I saw images of a cake, prepared especially for the President of Azerbaijan's 49th birthday in the country's second largest city- Ganja.

RFE/RL

The President was turning 49 and so the city of Ganja decided to prepare a birthday cake that was 49 meters long (mind you this has been continuing for the last three years with cake getting longer every year by one more meter). It took over a month of preparation and the cake weighted approximately 12 tons. The city officials refused to disclose any information on the amount spent on the cake however, it could be calculated from the amount of ingredients used for the cake (the original version of the article [AZ] can be read here).

RFE/RL

There is an image of an old lady held by the police officers trying to get her share of the cake (apparently people were not allowed anywhere near the cake but were given their shares by the police officers). Sad... But bitter reality... She is most probably, just one of the average pensioners whose life is based on the 75EUR a month and who probably is hungry pretty much most of the time... 

She might have never said it but "Let them eat cake" might as well suit these images and the attitude of the authorities in Azerbaijan toward their very own people.

RFE/RL

RFE/RL