Life in a prison cell of a political prisoner

Prison is a terrible place. It is worse if you are there not because of a particular crime you have committed but because of the crimes others have committed but trying to frame you. In Azerbaijan this phenomenon is called political prisoner and have many of these folks. In fact, we have more political prisoners than in Russia.

One of these prisoners is Ilgar Mammadov, presidential candidate, leader of a political movement. He was arrested after a visit to a town Ismayilli. In 2013 mass riots broke out there with people demanding attention to their grievances. And they had many. Poor infrastructure, corrupt administrative officers and so on. 

Mammadov went to see what was going on. The two was surrounded by the military (yes, the government in Baku was that afraid this might end up having a domino effect on other nearby regions as well). There was little information coming out. 

Mammadov was arrested shortly after his visit into Ismayilli. He was accused of organizing mass riots against the government and sentenced to seven years. 

But that is the story of many political prisoners. All sentenced on trumped charges, with no proof. 

People of Ismayilli would have never protested if they had better life standards, if they had better access to social services, and proper infrastructure. They would have not went on the streets had their administrative office was not a place of corruption and bribery but a place that actually dealt with people's problems and addressed their issues. But no, it was easier to jail political activists especially in the run up to the presidential elections to get red of competition and teach others a lesson. 

Mammadov's imprisonment however wasn't an end to silencing him and preventing him from continuing his political work. He has been beaten too. 

But in Azerbaijani prison, when a political prisoner is beaten, threaten, intimidated- it means golden stars for prison guard and the head of the prison from Baku's prosecutor office. Its as if they are assigned special homework. And beating is just one of the exercise assigned by the ruthless teacher. 

Mammadov's lawyer complained but it means nothing. 

It means so little that he was only seen by a doctor 5 days after he was beaten. 

Mammadov however thinks there is a reason behind these numerous attacks- to force him into signing a letter of pardon, apologizing. 

But apologizing for what? For wanting to change Azerbaijan for a better? For standing up for his rights and for the rights of others? For being an honest man? 

Official Baku proved on many occasions that none of the above really matter. It is only about consolidating more power, crushing down on more independent voices, and making sure people live in a constant state of fear.

Azerbaijan, the Oriental shame of the Caucasus

Perhaps the title rings a bell? 

Perhaps you have never seen this tourism ad titled "Azerbaijan, the European charm of the Orient"? 

Well now you know all about it. In fact, many readers of this blog are aware by now that Azerbaijan is no charm when it comes to its regime and the style of power- the dynasty of the orient even perhaps.

And the fact that Azerbaijani authorities refuse to accept any of the international criticisms and concerns only proves that there are deep scars that the government desperately tries to cover up like plastic surgeons do. Except in this case, its a very badly done plastic job (think boob job gone bad type of bad). 

There have been many reports, statements, petitions, signed, sealed, voiced and advocated for when it comes to the situation in Azerbaijan- poor (if not terrible) record of human rights, arrested activists, journalists, advocates; and more recently targeted youth, young members of existing political parties and movements and dirty media campaigns against well respected journalists. There have been many evaluations of the regime too- authoritarian, dictatorial, sultanistic, and more recently fascist. 

And as it is with many dictatorships around the world, in Azerbaijan nothing changes. So when the ruling party announced Ilham Aliyev as their candidate to run in the upcoming October Presidential elections, at least what they could have done is show some respect towards others- but behold, thats not part of the language they talk. So comments about other candidates were blatant if not silly to some extent. But then again, brains is another contested matter over there.

But none of this was the point of this post. I wanted to share with a you a timely video prepared by the Human Rights Watch highlight some of the most recent cases. You can also read their full 106page report, "Tightening the screws: Azerbaijan's Crackdown on Civil Society and Dissent.

I guess the odds will never be in the favor of Azerbaijani people. Not in these elections to say the least. Perhaps a charming oriental miracle?

From Game of Thrones to the reality of a 20 year old conflict

Originally published on The Neutral Zone. 

“Those boys didn’t kill your sons […] They were just boys, look at them”.

Generally, I abstain from quoting lines from movies, TV series, or songs. But sometimes, there are some lines that are worth quoting; sometimes they are even worth writing down somewhere, and reading them every day to remind ourselves of who we are, what we have become, what we want to be, or where we are headed. When I heard these words, I wrote them down to remind myself and hopefully others of what we have become or will become if we do not stop seeking vengeance.

Some of you might be familiar with the “Game of Thrones” an epic fantasy television drama series. The series are based on a fantasy novel series written by George R. R. Martin. In season three, there is an episode when two captive, innocent boys are murdered by soldiers out of vengeance – their uncle’s soldiers killed the two sons of another fighter. The perpetrators are punished for committing this crime even though the captives are from the enemy line. The leader (the King of North) refuses to accept this act as crime committed out of justice. He says these boys were just boys and were not there when the two sons of the man who killed them were murdered.

Yes, it is a movie. Yes, it is a novel. But doesn’t this accusation hold true today, in many conflicts around the world? The act of revenge, vengeance, retaliation – there are so many ways to say it – but most of the time just one way to get it – ending someone’s life forever. Even if it means to kill an innocent child…

Often, this is what I think of nationalism that has taken over the minds and souls of many Azerbaijanis and Armenians. Isn’t this their “argument” – claiming lives of more innocents just because they are the enemies who once fought us and killed our brothers and sisters, uncles, fathers, mothers, and sometimes did much more than just killing?

But aren’t we forgetting something? Aren’t “those boys just boys”?! Why do we find it so easy to demand, to take the life of the other?! Did we give that life to them? No! Did we take part in the upbringing of that person? No! Then how can we so easily just say that someone deserves to die simply because that person comes from a certain country, nationality, blood, or race?

True, those who are responsible for the acts of violence should be held responsible but in no way can we hold a young Azerbaijani or an Armenian responsible for something that was done 20 years ago, perhaps when these innocent people were only infants. And instilling hatred and anger from a young age, influencing the decision and thinking of younger people based on history of violence isn’t the right way either. No one says let’s forget it all together and give up. History is an important part of our life, shaping our countries just as it shapes our lives. But it should not be used as an excuse or a weapon. Respecting history and paying homage to it is one thing; killing and seeking vengeance based on it is something else…

#occupygezi through the lens of a foreigner

I wrote this post as a guest post for Erkan Saka's Field Diary. Wanted to share it here as well.

"I moved to Istanbul in 2007. The largest form of protest I witnessed back then was the march organized to protest the death of an editor and chief of weekly Armenian paper- AGOS. Never did it cross my mind that only few years later I am going to be part of something special, something that for some has been coined as the greatest thing that happened to the people of Turkey ever since the last coup in the 80s. 

Many faces of occupygezi 

There she was standing on the edge of a construction block throwing stones to the protesters. “Here take some more”, she was shouting through a medical mask that covered her face (a common accessory used by many of the protesters in Istanbul and across Turkey). I turned my camera and started taking photographs of this woman in her 50s, maybe 60s. It was hard to tell her age, only her graying hair was giving it away. For me she was just another icon of the #occupygezi protests similar to the woman in red and a woman in black (the list got longer as the protests escalated, with a young man playing a guitar boldly in front of TOMA vehicle, a naked man and later the standingman).  

All these people together with tens of thousands more were taking the streets protesting. For some occupygezi was about protecting nature, for others standing up for their rights, their freedoms, their choices and the authoritarian grip of the ruling Justice and Development Party.

I was in Taksim square on May 31^st, holding my camera and trying to breath through the thick smoke of tear gas. For the first time in my life, I tasted tear gas and pepper gas. For the first time in my life I saw water canons. The brutality of Turkish riot police reminded me of my home country Azerbaijan and how our police used violence to disperse crowds of people whenever they took the streets in recent years to protest its own government.

Later weeks became a routine- meetings with foreign journalists late at night, walks in Gezi Park, interviewing protesters, watching police intervene, and the never- ending feeling of resistance and solidary in the eyes of many of the faces of Gezi Park protests. 

My camera was ready, capturing moments, the faces, just like that woman-throwing stones. At times it felt peaceful and at times, the scenes in Taksim square, on Istiklal and in many parts of Turkey felt no less than war scenes from movies.  

Twitter and Vine became my best friends while covering the Gezi Protests. My camera and the photographs were proof of how one country and its brave people can change its destiny. 

These days, I feel a different kind of Turkey. I feel like people have finally woken up and are ready to challenge the government that isn’t too ready to accept this challenge and face the reality of the Turkey it has created and at times forced upon its people.

For many this is a new beginning. As a foreigner living in Turkey, this new beginning feels exhilarating. But what is more important is not to lose this momentum. There is a long path lying ahead of Turkey now. How it is shaped now depends on its people as much as it depends on its government. 

As for me… my camera is ready so as me, to see and be part of this change…" 

Taksim square- before and after the protests

Last night, as I joined residents of Istanbul in Taksim square for #standingman silent protest memories of how the square liked just few days back hit me pretty quickly. I have grown used to the crowd, there was something certainly very special in the air. Last night everything looked different. As if in fact nothing ever happened. 

And so, I thought I share the images below comparing the early days of protests, before police hit everyone pretty hard with violence and emptied the park with tear gas, sound bombs and violence.

p.s.: photography by me. if you are interested in more photos from the protests you can visit here, i have compiled all the photographs i have been taking of the protests in this album.

I am not a hoodlum, not an extremist, not a marginal, I am an individual, with rights

Before I found myself in the middle of Taksim Square on May 31st, I was just an expat living in Istanbul. I enjoyed living here though my concerns of what to become of Turkey as a result of seriously conservative policies placed by the ruling AKP increasingly grew over me. 

Turkey was a different place when I first came here, which was in 2001. I was here as a student, studying International Relations and I remember clearly the elections in 2002. I remember the festive atmosphere. People greeting AK Pary's buses in Kizilar. Flowers and promises for a greater future were everywhere. 

I left Ankara in 2005 and came back in 2007, around the time when YouTube was banned. I was shocked. How can YouTube be banned here?! For me Turkey always was a beacon of hope especially for someone who comes from Azerbaijan, where the authoritarian rule of one family been suffocating the country and its people for almost two decades now. Of course there were ways to go around banned YouTube. This was the first time I learned about bypass proxies. 

Then I left again 2009 and returned in 2010 this time with an intention to stay for much longer. But ever since I have been back (and in pretty much all cases) nothing good happened in Turkey. When I first moved back to Istanbul in 2007, I was one of privileged expats, with a generous salary, enjoying the colorful and rich life of Istanbul. But this wasn't the case for everybody, despite the increasing salaries and booming economy. 

AKP policies kept coming in, and while people protested nothing changed. Decisions were made, amendments passed and people got on with their lives. Mass arrests of army generals in the fear of "deep state plotting"; arrests of prominent individual and journalists, recent ban on alcohol and on public kissing, were really the final drops before this nation of some 70 million realized that the cup is full and there is no more room for any "kneeling". #occupygezi came at a right moment. The road expansion plan, cutting of trees, and the brutal police [mis]treatment of people who were at the park opened the Pandora box. People were angry and it wasn't just about trees anymore. 

And so, as events unraveled I too joined hundreds of thousands Istanbulites in protest, demanding that my voice, as an individual, is heard and that my rights are respected. It was disappointing to see government's initial reaction. It was quick to dismiss the essence of the protests and calling all of us- hooligans, alcoholics, hoodlums, extremist and marginals while we are students, doctors, lawyers, teachers, pensioners, housewives, engineers, and people from all sorts of interesting backgrounds. 

Today is the 9th day of protests in Istanbul. Today is also the day when demands of "Diren Taksim" [Resist Taksim] are heard by Deputy Prime Minister. The demands are simple (this is a rough translation, original text is available here): 

1. Gezi Park must stay as a park and that the authorities must announce a unanimous decision that nothing will be built there and it will remain a park from now on;

2. Ataturk Cultural Center (a building right next to Gezi Park) will remain untouched as well;

3. Governors, heads of security forces of Ankara, Istanbul and Hatay and those implementing their immediate orders must be dismissed from their duties immediately;

4. Ban on use of gas cannons and similar materials;

5. All those detained must be released immediately; 

6. No more bans on public gatherings in squares like Taksim and Kizilay (in Ankara) and other public squares; no more bans on the right to protest; and removal of all kinds of conditions limiting freedom of expression. 

The only person who apologized for the violence has been Deputy Prime Minister (and that was on the 8th day of protests and wasn't an apology from everyone mind you). The Prime Minister himself is away on a state visit trip. He left the country in a turmoil, once again dismissing everything that's been happening as an act of hooliganism, fueled by outside powers, jealous of Turkey's economy and the country's growing power significance. Well, dear Mr. Prime Minister, as one CHP Parliament Member said yesterday, "you have been poisoned by power". And that is the problem. People had expectations when PM Erdogan first came to power. Many voted for him and his party and voted again for him and the party but if more than 60 towns been on a revolt and the ruling party is still talking about trees and calling us names, this shows that something is wrong. One cannot call your citizens hoodlums and certainly one cannot say that Twitter is a menace to Turkish society. It is thanks to Twitter that we have been getting and sharing news about what is happening because Turkish media wouldn't (As someone wrote on a wall near Taksim "Revolution will not be televised, it will be tweeted"). It was only after Prime Minister left the country that CNN Turk began showing more footage of police brutality. But even today, on the 9th day of protest there is still no live coverage outside of hourly news segments.

What is going to happen next we are yet to see. I have certainly had enough of tear gas. Though on the nights when I don't get even the swift of it, it feels strange, like something is missing from my life. Will the current government resign after days of calls? I am not sure either. But things have to change, and that is I am sure of. I will be back in Taksim square today, tomorrow and the day after tomorrow if need be. I will come and join the peaceful protesters and continue tweeting and taking photos. I know I am not alone.

I am happy to be part of this resistance and see what Turkish people are capable of. Thanks to them, (and thanks to the Prime Minister because if it wasn't for him this probably would have never happened), I saw the unity and solidarity that could form among people united by one cause. The resistance continues! #direngeziparki #direnturkiye!

photographs are by me

May 31st, Taksim Square

short video from the footage i had from May 31st and June 1st.

here is YouTube link if you cannot open it here for some reason.

Gas, watercannons, wounded, dismantled buses and cars- no, this is not a movie scene

Have you ever gone from a wedding to a protest? I have. Two nights ago my two buddies had a wedding. It was beautiful. Outside of the city chaos and mayhem we were surrounded by trees, clean (gas free) air, and of course, two happy people surrounded by their friends and family tying their knots for their lifetime. 

But all of us, friends, were torn. We spent a good half of the wedding checking Twitter (because traditional media been pretty much silent for the past few days) trying to stay tuned. Every minute there was something- but the worst news were coming from a neighborhood called Besiktas. Located not far from the Besiktas Soccer Stadium. Besiktas is a lively residential district popular not only among Besiktas soccer team fans but also among locals. The night before, some of my friends were there, but instead of enjoying the fresh fish from the local bazar or a stroll through some of the cobble stone streets, they were greeted with tear gas and police. For the past two nights, this neighborhood turned into a war zone - clashes between riot police and the protestors. There were many injured. People were tweeting pictures that looked nothing short of a movie set of some war/out-of-this-word zone.

The wedding was over, and so we drove back to city center. Talking to passer by who were coming back from Besiktas we didn't hear anything good- tear gas, pepper gas, some even thought police was using something called orange gas. To protect themselves protesters used a mix of talcid and water, milk, lemon, goggles, masks, hard construction hats- basically anything that can protect one's body against possible attack. 

We too packed our bags and started walking. It is hard to describe what I saw so I am just going to share photographs: 

Near Besiktas Inonu Stadium- night of June 2nd

Barricades on the way to Taksim near Besiktas Inonu Stadium- night of June 2nd circa 3am

More barricades

Taksim square- Morning of June 2nd, around 3.30am

I took photo above in the afternoon of June 1st, the photo below is the same spot at around 3am on June 2nd

Above Taksim square, May 31st, people running from tear gas, below Taksim square, June 2 early morning, people no longer running

"Don't be silent"

I came home frustrated. The looting was affecting the whole purpose of resistance. It was becoming violent and this was not the original intention. But then it was inevitable I suppose. The anger and frustration of the people has grown out of proportions and it is no longer about trees and park. Its about something much bigger- something that is called AKP. 

So far, the authorities have failed to understand this, and that is why people are continuing to resist. And looks like will continue because its no longer few hundred people, green activists protecting trees, its about over 60 cities of Turkey where thousands of people are protesting the regime and calling for PM's resignation.

Stay tuned, more updates are coming.

To built a mall or save a park- that is the question

But not for the officials of Turkey. In the heart of Istanbul there is a square known to many of this city visitors as Taksim Square. We the locals call it Taksim and its often a meeting point. Right next to this square there stands a very pretty park- Gezi. Few days ago the state officials announced its plans to destroy the park and built yet another shopping mall in this booming historical city (By the end of 2013 the number of total shopping malls in Istanbul alone is estimade to reach 133). Why? Its a good question an answer to which has not been given- at least not by those very state officials, not yet.

Today I'm here (May 31st) just like many residents of Istanbul demanding anullment of the construction plans and keeping the park safe and the area green. I breathed in wonderful tear gas, I saw many injured people, police use watercannons to disperse the crowds and its not over yet. The clash between peaceful protesters and violent police continues. Its been going on for the past few days and looks like will persist.

Unfortunately I cannot post any photos at the moment as I am in a remote location but will share some of the sound records and ımages later as soon as I get a chance.

For now please follow #direngeziparki for furhter updates on Twitter and share whats happening here. All that people want is to protect their park.

Azerbaijan: Suits, uniforms, body ache

On March 10^th, Azerbaijani citizens came together to protest the deaths of military conscripts. Many held the photographs of a deceased young soldier, an 18-year-old conscript Ceyhun Gubadov whose initial death report said the young man died of a heart failure. The young man however was the victim of physical mistreatment. Gubadov wasn’t the first, nor is he the last conscript to lose a life in suspicious, undefined circumstances (most often hazing and abuse), which usually are covered by fake medical reports.  

Police ordered demonstrators to disperse given the rally was unsanctioned. Men in uniforms and plain clothed police however resorted to violence quickly using water cannons, rubber bullets and force in an attempt to scare the protestors. 

The poem below is about my emotions and feelings- what came out as a result of recent events at home. 

"suits and uniforms"

Making up your mind

Waking up to the reality

Slowing down the pace

Of life, of yet another sanity

I’m suffocating

These men in suits and uniforms

They mutilate me

Not physically but mentally

My body aches

From mental wounds

From their insanity

They are killing me

Gradually

They are suffocating me

Slowly

They mutilate me

Reducing living cells

Of my lucidity

I reach the point

In my life

When questioning the “suits” and “uniforms”

Makes no more sense

As they are senseless

They are still

Not physically but mentally

They hurt, they suffocate

Both physically and mentally

They say it’ll pass

But when and how

And will my body, mind and soul

Keep up the fight

The struggle

And find the strength

To see the light and day

When men in suits and uniforms no longer there

To mutilate and suffocate

To let me go

To let us go

To live a life

No longer scared,

No longer hurt

But that’s a dream,

Too far from the reality

And as I wake up

And see reality

My body aches

Not physically but mentally

And once again

I start to lose my sanity

Different perspectives

A look from the OSCE's Ambassador office and the streets of Baku. Indeed as you rightly put Ambassador Targay there are "good results at the police forces and in rapid deployment forces". They are getting better and better with each protest.

Happy Women's Day in a not so happy world

I come from an ex- Soviet country. March 8th, was a big thing back home. In fact, it still is. I think its a holiday even. But when I think of women at home and women all around the world, there is not much happiness that I see out there waiting for them. At home, women are subject to domestic violence, speaking of gender equality makes one automatically a feminist and overall respect for women only comes when she becomes a mother and reaches the age of 60 or 70. 

We also have this heavy burden of something called honor and though perhaps not as severe as it is in Turkey (where honor killings is a popular practice) there are cases of violence against women or punishment for simply lets say crossing paths with a young boy.

The other day, as I was strolling down the streets of Baku, I witnessed how a young man (somewhere around in his 20s) was slapping his female friend (probably his wife). There were three men who passed by, but no one said anything. I stopped, watched him for a while, scream and shout at her (I thought my presence there, would make him stop but I was wrong) when I finally asked him why is he beating her up? He was taken by a surprise. "She betrayed me" was his first response. "I work day and night, for her and yet she lies to me" he then added, to which crying young woman lifted her head and said it wasn't true. I tried explaining to him that this is not right, and that he should apologize and they should try talking. He listened carefully, but I don't know what happened next. I watched him walk away but what happened later, nobody knows. 

And so on the day like today, thinking of that young woman sitting on the ground, crying, I wish and hope for no violence against women, equality and respect, and support to women all around the world. We all are born equal in this world, and we should all fight (men including) violence against women and demand equal rights for women. Happy Women's Day!

Heart failure or torture, that is the question

A solider died. His name was Ceyhun Qubatov. He left his home approximately three months ago to fulfill his obligatory military service. He never returned.

His family was first told, he died of a heart failure. Strangely, Qubatov never had a heart condition, not according to medical reports prior to his military service, not during the service. 

Following desperate cries from his family (including photographs of the deceased that explicitly showed bruising over his body), an investigation is now launched, with some 15 suspected conscripts. 

Interesting isn't it? If it wasn't for Qubatov's family members' cries, this so- called "investigation" would never take place. I wonder whether those 15 suspected soldiers are actually suspects? Surely some of them will go to the tribunal, no one will dare to punish any of the high command military personnel who probably committed this treachery.

And of course, if initial report said Qubatov died of a heart failure, then why, all of a sudden there is an investigation, suspects?

It is just sad. A solider died. Life is lost. A young life. A life that had a future. But someone decided to end this life early. That someone will most likely never get punished for this, instead, someone else will rot somewhere in jail.

To commemorate the death of Qubatov and many more soldiers who "mysteriously" died (not during combat) of conditions as "heart failure" (and others) during their military service, a silent march is planned on January 12th at 16.00. A Facebook group [AZ] called "An end to death of soldiers" [with an impressive number of attendants already in its first day] reminds its readers that in no way this is a political protest, instead it should be seen as people's chance to say "Stop!" to this injustice, calling on anyone with conscience to come and join the crowd.

Incidentally one of the organizer's of the Facebook page, Ilkin Rustemzade reported of a police hunt on him. According to Rustemzade, his house, his relatives' homes, all received visits by local police officers in their "witch hunt" on him. Could it be a coincidence that all of a sudden he is on the radar? I wonder what is the explanation for this? Wait a second... I think we might already know this scenario- could it be hooliganism?

'Hypocrisy'

'Hypocrisy' is a short promo video about Azerbaijan and the hidden "treasures" behind Eurovision glitz and glamor.

Azerbaijani police ready to protect Eurovision in full fashion (updated)

This is the full security Azerbaijani government is promising the EBU (European Broadcasting Union) during Eurovision song contest. Keep silent EBU because Eurovision as you say is not politicized and the police protecting you is not politicized at all, especially in a country like Azerbaijan. 

Source: http://on.fb.me/KWdKBF

Updated May 16th:
And here is a video (read the full story here) from Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty (RFEL) of May 14th.

No comment...

One question: if everything was great in Azerbaijan as certain people say it is, then why people would shout "Resignation" and protest?

Certainly, the vide below only justifies oppressive Azerbaijan regime and Azerbaijani police that acts on orders of the authorities.

One answer: nothing is great in Azerbaijan.